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Journey through esthetics is the must have reference Book that you should have on your desk if you are beginning your journey in esthetics or your are in a dermatology office struggling through the know, how of Different steps involved in performing various skin procedures or want to improve your skin health on your own or what to expect when you visit your skin therapist office

It will give you the  concise knowledge that you require in skincare business ,about skin health,nutrition and a list of common skin condition and diseases giving you the tinnest detail that will help you stand out in the crowd.

It is written by Naushaba ahmad who is a skin therapist with a medicl background .She does skin consultations on her web page if you come across any problem Try getting your copy today and write your comments by visiting elegancelooks.com web page.The book is available on Amazon and kindle

SKIN REJUVINATION

It is always a good idea to starting thinking  about skin pampering before a special event especially around christmas however we must always place emphasis on regenerating skin from inside out and the only way you can balance this is thinking before choosing those expensive products , am l doing the right thing?, am I choosing healthy  food as a metabolic fuel for my body which is later going to reflect on to my skin? That is the first thing that you should think of before embarking on your skin care plan .Here are some of the tips to consider:

Balanced diet,staying away from fast processed foods.

Consuming fresh organic products as much as possible.

Drink plenty of water as needed especially during winter months when the thirst is not quit enough ,it will keep your skin well hydrated and supple.

During the summer months, a simple recipe  for a refreshing drink is to take a pitcher of warm water, cut some washed cucumber in round rinds and lemons and add it to the pictcher of water with a small piece of peeled ginger. Now drink this mixture as needed not exceeding six glasses every day, avoid drinking at bed time in order to have a restful sleep.

The nutrition that you need may vary according to you age. Sex overall health and life style that would include omega3 and omega6 that will boost the skin barrier and protect it from potentially harmful elements. 

Regular use of supplements such as A,C,E selenium and zinc always consult your physcian before starting any supplement .

Exercise especially walking and stretching excercises including moving your facial muscles too that means moving your head up, down and both side way however not over stretching  ,using your hands for resistance each side

Follow a regular skin rejuvenating routine including 

1-Exfoliation with a mild cleanser.

2-using a toner if the skin is not too dry.witch hazel is a good option for acne prone skin.Micellar water is refreshing and hydrating.

3- A complexion brightner such as vitamin c serm.

4- Moisturizer an excellent one with hyaluronic acid.

5-A good eye cream.

6-Always wear a sun screen especially while driving.

Use a cotton pillow so the your skin can breath during the night. Try not to cover your face while sleeping. 

Try optimization your skin health by getting a professional facial with your skin therapist once a month or at least before special occasions. 

These are fews of the tips that I wanted with share with you guys .I hope you find  the blog interesting do not forget to add comments .Mery christmas and happy new year.

 

 

 

 

DETERMINE THE CORRECT SKIN CONDITION

That first question that may pop up in you mind while standing in front of the mirror  wondering is what is my skin type?? Second question that you may ask yourself is t how will I be able to improve the flaws that I am finding on my face and the third most important question is: how will I be able to resolve the issue that concerns  me the most without breaking my bank and if I am not willing to go to the beauty store how can a useful concoction form my kitchen help me. These are all genuine question that you have in your mind today,now let see how useful can we be in helping you out.

Different skin types:

Skin is traditionally  divided into four types:

Normal.

Dry.

Combination.

Oily.

Sensative.

Let us discuss each skin type using simplicity as our initial guide:

Normal skin type: This is the most usual type of skin that has a normal healthy oil water balance,the pore size is normal  small to medium sized not quit visible  to your eyes and the skin is generally free of blemishes. Now what is your goal for this type of skin,it is usually preventive and maintenance ,therefore you will follow the usual skin care regemine for this skin type That includes exfoliation/morning, toning mornig/evening moisturizing/ morning and evening ,eye cream morning/ evening and sunscreen/ morning. For the preventive measures you will add a good retinol serum at night once a week.

Dry skin: As the name suggests it is the type of skin that does not produce enough oil, it is characterized by low sebum/natural oil production and small follicles. This type of skin. Is not well protected from harsh external environment, it is sensitive and often has a rough texture and feels tight after washing face with water.This type of skin is protected best by applying a good face cream .The routine is the same three times a day if you can do it and in the end applying a good cream for hydration and repairing  you skin barrier.For the skin turn over that is regeneration the suggestion is a thin layer of retinol once a week.

Combination skin: This type of skin is a combination of oily and dry it can be flacky due to lack of water.For this type of skin the care includes balance the oil/ water equilibrium using milder products to cleanse with regular exfoliation of the dryer areas water  base products for moisturizing and not using the retinal serum instead use brightener such as vitamin C serum.

Oily Skin.This type of skin producing excessive oils resulting in large pores  blemishes and flaking all over the face especially the nose and chin area Black and white heads are a common finding.Oily skin requires cleansing/ exfoliating on regular bases morning  evening  if the face get too dry, switch to a alternate regemine.Toner like witch hazel is very beneficial  only once or twice a day. For moisturizing always use a water based Moisturizer. At night use a thin layer of barrier repair serum. If you develop dark spots use a vitamin C serum at night. Keep you pillow of cotton fabric, changing it frequently .Acne is the best example of this type of skin.

Sensitive skin. This type of skin is genetically determined that is you are born with it and the face show redness when exposed to environment toxins as a wrong seletion of skin care products, stress, smoking, excessive alcohol consumption, climate factors such as dry winds and harsh weather conditions.By lookig at the face the skin is fragile, thin, red and flaky, it has a tendency to flush when subjected to harsh environment, there are tinny  blood vessels visible on the skin. Rosacea  is the best example of such skin type ,for the skin care you need to be very careful  as to not use harsh exfolients on the skin , only use mild water base cleansers on alternate day and exfoliate only once a week ,do not rub the face too aggresively.At night end your routine with a skin barrier repair product that is ultracalming for the skin.Add c serum once a week to strengthen you collagen supporting the blood vessels at night . Avoid retinal based products  as these can be a harsh choice for the skin care products.

By the rule of thumb more stress cannot  be placed upon the fact that  always stay gentle to your skin.Do message with a good Moisturizer  before going to bed as you have at last have good time for yourself  away from all the hassles of the day. Only messaging for five minutes with a cream which can be a water based Moisturizer or a oil based, depending on your skin type.GOOD NIGHT  DEAR SKIN.🥱

These are the few skin types that we human have and it should be our goal to take good care of our skin ,keeping it happy ,healthy and glowing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

COMMONLY USED SKIN CARE PRODUCTS:

Skincare products  are derived  from a number of sources, including herbs, plants and synthetic ingredients.  Before using a skin care product always  read the manufacture label and instructions. Always use skincare products according to your skin types and try doing a patch test at the back of your ear or forearm to make sure that you are not allergic to one of the active ingredient.

There are two types of main ingredients in most of the skincare formolutions,

Performance ingredients: ,these are the active ingredients present in a formulation, meaning that these Ingredients can cause physiogical changes in the skin,for example alpha hydroxy acid( AHA) that exfoliates the outer most layer of the skin the corneum, and Glycerin that hydrates the skin going down through all layers.

Functional ingredients: these ingredients add volume, texture and consistency to the products and allowing the product to spread, these do not affect the skin physiology, however are necessary for product formulation the best example is the presence of preservative in a skincare  products, these prevent the presence of microorganisms such as bacteria, molds in a product that can be the source of Infection in the skin. The common agents Include EDTA, ascorbyl palmitate and urea.

Let's shed  some light on the common skin care products formulations that you use into your daily routine.

Moisturizers: These are the ingredients that help prevent dehydration by attracting water to the skin surface ,the examples include glycerine and hyaluronic acid.

Occlusive agents: These coat the stratum corneum, the outer most layer of skin thus preventing water loss.These would include petroleum jelly ,squalene which is present in olive oil  and mineral oil.

Barrier Repair agents: The outer layer of skin called the epidermis that is covered by stratum corneum contain cells called the keratinocytes, these are held together  by cholesterol,ceremides and fatty acids as motar thus forming  the skin barrier,Therefore a disruption of this watertight seal around the keratinocytes prevents water loss ,prevents skin from allergens ,irritants, bacteria and molds. The most common examples are ceramides.

Antioxidants agents: our skin contain naturally occurring antioxidants  that protects it against free radicals that are the number one cause of skin premature aging and wrinkling ,these include vitamin E ,Vitamin C and CoQ10 and green tea ,these are some of the common examples of antioxdiants.

Anti inflammatory agents : These are involved in protecting us against harmful stimulus such as inflammation causing infective agents and irritants. These responses involve immune cells ,blood vessels and inflammatory mediators.The best examples of such skin conditions are acne and rosacea and the anti inflammatory products include salicylic acid, aelovera, turmeric and oatmeal.

Skin Brightening agents: There are several agents that prevents melanin production, which gives colour to our skin  Excessive production of this color that is melanin can lead to pigmentation, resulting in melasma ,dark spots and solar lentigo.The examples of these antioxidants and anti inflammatory agents are Vitamin C, cucumber, soya, and arbutin.

Anti-aging agents:There are internal and external environmental factors involved in aging such as smoking, alcohol consumption ,poor nutrition and sun exposure. The example of skin aging are sagging, rough texture and pigmentation.The antioxidant agents that prevent these affects in the skin include Vitman C,Vitman E and retinods 

Sunscreening agents.These are the agents that absorb ultraviolet light. There are organic and inorganic sunscreen agents ,the organic are carbon based compounds and the inorganic are carbon free agents.The organic carbon containing agents are chemical sunscreens that absorb ultavoilet light and the inorganic are the physical sunscreens that reflect ultraviolet light. The SPF is the effectiveness of a product in delaying sun induced erythema that is the visible sign of sun damage Examples of the organic sunscreen agents are oxybenzone and octinoxate.The inorganic sunscreen agents are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

These are some of the  common ingredients that you should look for while buying skincare products.Good Luck!!

 

DIFFERENT TYPE OF INTRINSIC & EXTRINSIC MECHANISMS INVOLVED IN SKIN CARE:

As we age our skin goes through wear and tear and the different processes  involved  in making our skin look aged can be the result of  various Mechanisms that externally affect us through our environment, habit keep,  style of living , nutrition, our water intake, our incentives  to exercise and what skin products we apply  on our skin.The different factors that internally affect our skin are the various cascades that the external stimulus  triggers that leads  to fromation of free radicals, advance glycation end products(AGE), hormonal  imbalance,disrupted skin barrier called the acid mantle and aging cascade.

Inflammatory cascade: chronic inflammation  is the number one cause internal cause  of skin aging, which can be triggered  by mitochondrial damage  leading to DNA and RNA damage, protein synthesis disruption and eventually to cell death, the external most important  factor that can lead to these skin changes is unprotected sun exposure.It so happens that  Chronic inflammation  can result in the formation of free radicles that can rob electron from the skin cells leaving them damaged especially  fibroblasts- the cells responsible for manufacturing collagen  and elastin, these free radicles can also cause biochemical  changes leading to skin cancer, wrinkles and skin sagging therefore in order to avoid these inflammatory reactions we must prevent unprotected sun exposure, smoking  by using sun screen and the use of antioxidant both externally through the application of various vitman E and Vitamin C containing products and and internally a well balanced  diet and dietary  supplements.

Glycation end products formation cascade:This mechanism take places when a sugar Molecule attaches to the collagen causing it to stiffen and degenerates resulting in degradation of collagen and elastin  these AGE products are not recognized  by the immune system ,thus triggering an immune response resulting in the formation of antibodies which can cause inflammation ,leading to loss of elasticity resulting in skin sagging, wrinkles.In this scenario our antioxidant come for the rescue such as Vitman C Vitamin E and enzymes like super oxide dismutase, catalase and peroxide fighting  against against the AGE. The products containg  green tea, Curcumin (turmeric) containg products. Topical application of vitman A such as retinoids are recommended to reverse the sign of aging.

Cascade of skin aging due to sun exposure: There are certain enzymes that are activated when our skin is, exposed to unprotected  sun rays.these enzymes  are called Metalloprotienases(MMP) pretty fancy name for these scavengers!!! The main enzyme is called collagenase which under normal condition will cause tissue remodeling  and when these enzyme go basark secondary to exposure to excessive unprotected  sun rays or cigarette  smoking resulting in way high levels causing  disorganization and clumping of the skin cells leading to photoaging.

Hormones and skin aging:Hormones play a vital role in the up keep of our skin resulting in smooth tone and texture,as we age our harmone levels decreases  especially after menopause resulting in  reduced formation of  ground substance which is keeping our skin moist and supple. Also  the decrease level of collagen weakens the capillaries thus affecting the skin Barrier and dilation of capillary wall resulting in telengectasia. The main notorious  hormones involved in steeling our beauty fom us is estrogen whose levels are decreased and simultaneously there are  increased level of testosterone results in increased sebum production, increased pore size giving rise to adult acne and wrinkling.

Skin Natural barrier theory:Our natural skin barrier plays a key role in the formation of wrinkles, the natural barrier consists of fatty acid cholesterol  and ceramide, this barrier wraps each keratinocyte -- the skin forming cell preventing Trans -epidermis water loss or helps keeping the irritant out.Thus as we age there a reduced production of these barrier lipids resulting in entrance  of irritant from outside which leads to inflammation and ultimately wrinkling.The skin barrier  can be improved by using ceramide,fatty acid and cholesterol containing products.

These are some of the concepts involve in causing our skin to age ,sag and wrinkle. Taking into account the various environmental factor that tigger these cascades we can develop a better understanding of our skin and must introduce such remedies or skincare products or modalities externally and internally taking good nutrients that nourishes our bodies that can counteract these triggers leading to better beautiful, glowy and hydrated skin.

 

 

GRACEFULLY AGING SKIN:

Aging is a multifactoral process depending on number of factors and causes.It is genetically determined what type of skin we are going to inherit followed by Extrinsic and intrinsic  factors which gradually  influence our skin accelerating or decelerating  the aging process. The aging process results from a Madrid of physiological intrinsic changes that include mitochondrial, protein oxidation,telemere shortening,  vascular damage, impaired collagen synthesis, decrease keratinocytes differentiation and re-epitheliazation. Impaired microcirculation and lymphatic drainage will result in further exaggerating the aging process. Treatments include manual lymphatic drainage message and connective tissue manipulation can reverse this stagnation.

Regarding the free radicals which can be harmful if accumulated to a certain levels results in significant oxidative damage to the cell DNA and cell proteins. Antioxidants  and antinflammatory  skin care products can halter or reverse these changes ,maintaining the tissue intregity.The epidermis is negatively affected by the external environmental factors,the main culprit being the unprotected sun rays ,wind resulting in trans- epidermal water loss and skin dryness and dehydration. Wearing sun screen and hydrating products such as hyaluronic acid , beta glucan , niacinamide  and vitamin E can ameliorate these changes resulting in glowing ,supple skin.

The secondary changes to both of these factors result in skin lipid barrier damage which includes our balanced acid mantle that maintains an acidic PH around 5.5.if the PH rises to 6.0 the bad bacteria takes control of the environment  resulting in inflammation and infection.The acid mantle comprising of cholesterol, fatty acid and ceramides. The products that can help in restoring the skin barrier include green tea containing (ECGC). Sebum triglycerides resemble the plant triglycerides containing unsaturated fatty acid like linoleic acid,oleic acid and palmitic acid found in omega 3 and omega 6.Maintaining a proper skin barrier helps in preventing dryness, maintaining hemostasis ,inflammatory changes and skin aging.

Another important  factor in restoring  healthy skin is our sleep cycles. The facial effects of sleepless nights include tired looking skin, dehydration and dark cycles under the eyes. According to the CDC American are poor sleepers and one third American suffer from sleepless nights. Normally we spend most of our sleep in non- REM phase of the sleep cycle and about 25% in REM phase of the sleep cycle. The non REM sleep phase is where the restorative  process such as hormonal regulation such as cortisol melatonin, estrogen and progestrone are affected. Cortisol being the stress hormone increases due to sleeplessness resulting in loss of elasticity fine lines and wrinkles. Decreased levels of Other three hormones such as estrogen, progestrone  in women and testerone  level in men results in decreased collagen  synthesis  causing thining of the skin .Cellular repair and rejuvenation also take places during this phase . During the REM sleep phase the heart rate increases, the blood pressure and brain activity increases. All voluntary muscles except the eye muscles become motionless and tranquil.

A better understanding of the sleep cycle is therefore essential  for skin vitality. Numerous studies support a link between adequate sleep and skin aging therefore it is imperative to inquire about the quality and quantity of the skin during  the skin consultation process.There are a couple of tips in mind that you can convey to your client that include calming sleeping environment, adequate  hydration at least three hour before sleeping. Avoid caffeine and alcohol  consumption as these cause disruption of the carcardium rhythm. Excercise and take meals at least three hours before bedtime. Try not to use cellphone and computer right before going to bed.

While we put a lot of stress on skin aging how about the ''windows to your soul '' and the surrounding  territory .Yes!!you guess it right we are talking about your eye area.The skin around the eyes contain no fatty tissue,therefore it is suspectable to thining fine lines and wrinkles Extreme exhaustion can result in puffyness,eyebags and dark circles secondary to lack of sleep,stressful life style and unprotected sun and dry winds and dehydration. Tobacco smoking causes free radicle formation resulting in lines and  wrinkles.  The best way to keep your eyes glowing and the surrounding area youthful is to make certain changes in your life style including getting more restful sleep at least eight hours, drink plentiful water, avoid salty foods ,eat citrus fruits, nuts and tomatoes  which will help collagen formation and sagging skin. Protect this delicate  area fron ultraviolet ray by wearing  sunscreen, use hydrating moisture at least two times a day.Formulation containing hyaluronic acid are very useful. Last but not the least use kitchen remedies such as cut cucumber,cold teabags and unsweetened soya milk application with a soaked cotton ball are some of the helpful tips.

Aging is an on going process that cannot  be haltarad regardless, however you can prevent it from happening by slowing its progress. Protecting the skin fom harsh external environment, using the healthy food, supplements,using hydration and right type of skin care products can surely produce promising result and wallah !! You Can get  healthier younger looking skin. Let's have fun while pampering the largest organ of the body with a healthy habits, with daily routine of washing,exfoliating, brightening, hydrating  and protecting.Let your skin age with grace and beauty. 

 

MASKING YOUR AGE THE NUTRITIOUS WAY: our skin is infact intrepretating our inner health all the time. The different extrinsic  and the intrinsic factors affecting our skin in a positive  and a negative way, how we nurture our skin is of utmost importance in order to detoxify and put a glow on your skin.If it is said in the most scientific  or the simplest way that what you put inside in your body is of great importance, however little do we know that what you apply on your skin is of equal importance too.The basic facial that would like to give to your self from our own kitchen or have it professionally done contains certain steps such as cleansing, exfoliation, tone and after that comes the pampering phase of the facial  called The mask application within which you have 10 to 15 minutes to relax,  lay down on your couch  and listen  to some relaxing music, if you are having it done at a spa,it is even better as their music selection is more serene  and peacefull coinciding  with the beautiful environment  of the spa.If you were to compare the stress levels between the two place, I would still choose the spa as less stressful  and more relaxing as you are all there by yourself  with full attention  focused onto you, that time  frame  is alloted to you with no interruption from an external source such as the door bell ringing or the baby crying. Anyhow are we ready to mix up the simplest ingredients from our kitchen and create the most luxurious and nourishing food for our skin.Lets keep one thing thing in mind in these treatments are  only focusing on our face, neck and upper chest. The second thing to consider is that if we are mixing natural ingredients  with  herbs always test the mixture on a little part behind your ear or the forearm just in case you are a hypersensitive individual. 

MASK FOR MATURE SKIN:

ingredients:1 Oz of organic oatmeal,1/2 an Oz of ground rose petals, 3/2 tsbp of organic rose water a d few drops of rose essential oil.Mix are the ingredients and make a sticky paste. Apply it on a clean face and neck for 15 to 20 minutes till the mask is dry and ready to come off .Now wash your face and pat dry with a paper towel.Always follow this with the application of a good Moisturizer containing hyaluronic acid. YOU may switch the Moisturizer  for vitamin E oil or almond oil if you have issues  with uneven skin tones.

MASK FOR ACNE SKIN:This mask is a detoxifies it will calm your skin, deep clean it and keep the pores tinny tiny.

Ingredients:4 teaspoons of kaolin clay,1 teaspoon of dead sea mud,1/4teaspoon of activated charcoal, 1/8 teaspoon of apple cider vinegar,1/4 teaspoon of coffee black and brewed and 1/8 teaspoon of distilled water.In a small bowel  mix the clays,the sea mud and charcoal.Keep these ingredients  in a airtight container. Now activate the mask with apple cider vinegar and coffee into a thin  paste and apply it on you face for 10 minutes and wash.Followed by a Moisturizer such as vitamin E oil. You can store the clay, charcoal  and mud in air tight container for a while  in a dry place.

MASK FOR SENSATIVE SKIN:

Ingredients:1/2 egg white,1/2 teaspoon of cocoa powder,1/2 tablespoon of buttermilk and 1teaspoon of yogurt. First whisk the egg white until stiff ,fold in all the other ingredients and make a paste ,apply it on the face for 10 to 15 minutes and wash followed by 2 to 3 drops of orange oil .use it at least twice  a week. Left over can be stored in the fridge.Lactic acid in the buttermilk is certainly good for sensitive  skin and egg white and cocoa is good for tightening the skin.

MASK FOR NORMAL SKIN:

Ingredients 1/2 tablespoon of habecusus petals  powder,1/2 tablespoon of yogurt, 1/2 teaspoon of caster oil and 1 tablespoon  gram flour. Mix all the ingredients  in a bowel and make a thick paste. Now apply it on the face .Keep it on the face and neck  for 15 minutes and wash ,pat dry your skin and for moisturizing  use 2 to 3 drops of Vitman E  oil. The left overs can be stored in the fridge for the next week. It will give very smooth and dewy skin.

All these mask are good for Anti-aging  purposes too. Always well hydrate your self with water Give these masks  a try and comment if you were successful  in achieving your desired ,glowy  dewy skin. Always try one mask at a time and give it a period of at least a month for it to show you the results that you are looking for. Have fun!!

 

BEYOND THE SKIN ASILE: As we know that skin is the first line of defense against the external environmental factors,constantly working to protect the inner world from the outer world and visa versa. If one of our denfence  systems  are disrupted, damaged or impaired, the skin system will not be able to keep intact its intregity resulting in transepidermal water loss, disruptions of the physical barrier,the immunological and the biochemical  barrier..The physical barrier is the stratum corneum, acid mantle,and the microbiomesThe immunological barrier  is the adaptive and the innate immune system.The biochemical  barrier  is composed of lipids,antimicrobial peptides and the other molecules. The methodology  to prevent,treat and restore the stratum corneum is called corneotherapy.

The physical barrier  is the acid mantle and the skin microbiomes.The skin flora is called microbiota, these reside on the skin surface and are communities of the microorganisms about 1000 species present in superficial  layer of the epidermis and the upper part of the hair follicles. These are non pathogenic bacteria(not harmful to the host as long as the immune system is intact) and indeed offer benefits which include preventing the pathogen( the harmful bacteria) from colonizing  the skin.Condition such as atopic dermatitis are linked to the imbalance between the good macrobiota and  the environment. 

The superficial layer of the skin is acidic (4 to4.5 PH) due to lactic acid in the sweat produced by the skin bacteria and the sebum.These  protect the skin against  the growth of harmful bacteria .The skin flora don't pass between  people,very frequently  washing the hands can damage this protective external layer resulting transepithermal water loss, dryness scaling and dermatitis.

The immunological  barrier is maintained by products that has antioxidants  and antinflammatory properties.

Vitamin C(ascorbic acid).It is largely found in citrus fruit and green leafy vegetables. It plays a vital role in endogenous collagen production,bone forming and connective  tissue.Our bodies cannot synthesize  ascorbic acid,therefore it has to be consumed by external source. It is best absorbed at an acidic PH and for best results always use it with an acidic cleansers such as glycolic acid and salicylic acid before using vitamin C serum or cream.

Vitamin E ( tocopherol) : has antioxidant, photo protective and wound healing properties.It is a fat source vitamin and is mainly found in sebum, cell membranes and tissues.Externally it is present in many seeds oils and nuts.it is very affective in sun burn protection and atopic dermatitis. 

Ferulic Acid:it has antioxidant, antibacterial and anti inflammatory  properties.It is mostly found in olives spinich.grain rice and wheat.It belong to the family of polyphenol compounds called hydroxycinnamic acid.It is usually combined with vitman C and vitamin E to enhance its antioxidant properties.

There are several natural biochemical ingredients that protect and repair the skin barrier.

Ceramides: The key properties of these products are barrier repair  and anti inflammatory properties these features sphingolipids(spingosine and phytospingosine) and linoleic acid these are present in large amounts within the epidermis and are stored in lamellar  granules.The production of ceramide is increased with ultraviolet B radiation and on the other hand the alkaline PH reduces the ceramide synthesis that is why frequent soap use can decrease  the ceramide synthesis  and can negatively  affect the skin barrier. Wheat germ is the beat source of the skin ceramides.

Cholesterol:Helps in barrier repair and kertatinization. These consist of sterol and phospholipidid.Food items like eggs yolks,poultry and flex seed are the main source.The largest resievior of cholesterol sulphate  if found in granular layer.There are no studies indicating that the topical application of cholesterol containing  products cannot rise the serum cholesterol levls,therefore  these products can ne used safely.

Stearic Acid:These emulsify, hydrate and help in barrier repair. It has a waxy consistency  and is found in Shea butter and coca butter, dairy  butter and vegetable oil.It is used in all skin care products including soaps, body bars and  Moisturizers. Stearic acid has a saturated form called oleic acid , it plays an important  role in skin permeability and barrier.

What we define as beautiful skin is not just by chance as the genetic do play an important  role, it also means how we are able to keep it healthy and  looking beautiful by paying close attention to what we eat, drink and apply onto the skin.The knowledge of the intrenal, external  environmental  factors  plays a key role in attaining  glowing skin ,therefore we end today with the remark" Know your skin and treat it with tender and care.

SPRING IS IN THE AIR:Good bye winter months. it is time to renew ourselves. We are not hibernating anymore and nor is our skin.With the brighter longer days and the beautiful weather upon us, it is  the perfect time of the year to take advantage of the pleasant weather.The birds are churping  and the flower are blooming ,this brings with it suffering from allergies, having itchy swollen eyes, runny nose and sweating can cause your hands to come in close contact to your skin especially  the face pretty frequently. When this happens,then bacteria and dirt can frequently transfer from your hand to your skin, resulting in clogging of  your pores leading to breakouts,that can lead to irritation ,itching and pigmentation.The resulting dryness  from lack of moisture can result in fine lines and wrinkles.

By chance since the weather is nice therefore you plan to take walks in the backward or start paying visits to the gym that can also lead to sweating,irritation and breakouts. Now is the time to add daily face washing at least twice a day to your skin routine.especially coming back from your daily walks and the gym.

Now that we know the different ways that spring can impact our skin health we have to come out for a better course of action to keep our skin healthy and glowing.

Here are some of the tips that we need to follow or add into our routine.

EXFOLIATE YOUR WINTER SKIN LAYERS OFF:To help your skin recover the winter month dullness and dryness you need to start exfoliating at least twice a week to remove any build up of dead skin cells and bacteria.Start with a gentle exfoliation such as  daily microfoliant  from dermologica.The rice based enzyme powder with a brightening botanical complex microexfoliate the dull debris leaving the skin smoother and brighter.A very superficial peels with AHA, BHA and lactic acid can also help especially done at your skin therapist office.

MOISTURISE WITH A WATER BASE MOISTURIZER: to hydrate your skin with a light weight oil free lotion for daily moisturizing  such as active moist lotion by dermologica.The silk amino acids will help smooth and improve the skin texture.The lemon fruit in it will help refine the skin surface.

ALWAYS WEAR A SUN SCREEN:even if you dislike the idea of slathering a sun screen, at least use a Moisturizer with SPF 30. Since your skin gets exposed to UV rays,therefore shielding it from sun rays will fight off skin aging and skin cancer.We recommend solar denfense booster spf 50 applying to the full face and the neck. 30 minutes prior to the sun exposure. 

GIVE SPECIAL ATTENTION TO YOUR MAKE UP: If you wear make up when you excercise  or go for a walk ,keep it low instead try using a BB cream with a mild color tint instead of heavy foundation.It is also time to do a little bit of spring cleaning on your skin care products especially  the foundation.Tossing out the heavy-duty  foundation  for a lighter version for the month of spring and  summer.

REDUCE STRESS: As we know that stress is the number one cause of oily skin and breakouts, itching and irritation therefore we need to destress ourselves with yoga and breathing excersises.

WEAR 100% COTTON OR OTHER NATURAL FIBRE: especially during the gym and walking in the park ,since polyester  and synthetic  material can make you sweating and is a breeding ground for body acne.

ALWAYS HYDRATE YOURSELF WITH WATER depending on your hydration level and the surrounding  environment. 

Try pampering  your skin giving it the special attention that it deserves.It is also time to pay a visit to your dermatologist  for an annual check up. However do not for get a nice refreshing facial from your skin Therapist since  it will give you time to relax and indulge your self before embarking  on a journey  to the following  spring season.

 

THYROID AND SKIN HEALTH: Thyroid is a small butterfly shaped  organ that is located in front if the neck wrapped around the wind pipe.The thyroid makes important  hormones that control many functions in the body.If it is not functioning properly it can impact your entire  body.If the body makes too much hormones the condition  is called hyperthyroidism and if it makes too little hormones the condition  is called hypothyroidism. Think your body as a generator, it takes raw energy and uses it to power your body.The pituitary  gland located in the center of the skull monitor and control the amount of thyroid hormones in your old stream.When the pituitary gland senses a lack of thyroid hormones in your body it adjusts the amount of thyroid hormones in the blood stream by producing its own hormone called the thyroid stimulating hormone (TSH). The secretion of this hormone  tells the thyroid gland what needs to be done and the thyroid gland will act accordingly to bring the hormone  back to its hemostatic level.This forms the pituitary thyroid hormonal axis.

AFFECT OF THYROID HORMONES ON SKIN TISSUE:There are thyroid receptors present  on the skin and the thyroid hormones action is mediated through these receptors.These receptors are present  on the epidermal keratinocytes,skin fibroblasts, hair aerector pilli muscle cells responsible for goose pumps,other smooth muscle  calls, sebaceous glands, vascular endothelial  cells, ,Schwan's cells and hair follicle cells.

Skin in the hypothyroid state is rough and scaly on the extensor exteremities.Dryness may resembles acquired ichthyosis. The palm and sole are dry.The skin coloration  is pale due to increased dermal mucopolysacchrides and dermal water content.Increased dermal carotene  may cause prominent hue on the palm and soles and the nasolabial folds.

Skin in the hyperthyroid state is thin not atrophic.Most  thyrotoxicosis is due to grave disease which includes excessive  deposition  of glucosaminoglycan within the dermis.

Hair and Nail changes:There is a decrease in both the resting  phase of hair growth cycle, the telogen phase and the growth phase of the cycle the anagen phase.

Clinically in the hypothyroid state the hair can be dry brittle and slow growing. Diffuse or partial alopecia is observed along with lateral third loss of eyebrow(madarosis).

In the hyperthyroidism state the hair are fine and soft. Nail changes may also occur characterized  a concave contour accompanied by distal oncholysis(plummer nails).A non scaring alopecia may also be observed.

Sweat gland changes: The skin dryness is also due to decreased eccrine gland secretion and the sweat gland electrolytes are also increased.The thyrotoxic state suffers from generalized hyperhydrosis,usually on the palms and the soles secondary to increased sympthatoadrenal activity due to combined affects of catecholamine and thyroid hormones. 

Hyperpigmentation is also noted in the hyperthyrotoxic state.and is speculated due to increased release of pituitary adrenocorticotrophic hormone compensating for cortisol  degradation. The skin in hypothyroid state is pale due to decreased skin profusion. Purpura may be noted due to diminish level of clotting factors and loss of vascular support due to mucin deposition.

Associated autoimmune disease. Although  patients with autoimmune thyroid disease are at an increased risk of Other autoimmune diseases, both tissue specific and generalized.The autoimmune skin conditions include vitiligo, alopecia areta, pernicious anemia, lupus erthymatosis, lichen sclerosis et atrophicus and urticaria and  so forth.Urticaria is associated with antithyroid peroxide IgEantibodies.ln thyrotoxic state dermopathy is noted previously called pretibial myxedema.related to altered  proteoglycaine within the dermal papilla.pruritis is also a well known association with urticaria. 

These are some of the associated skin changes and condition observed in dysfunctional thyroid gland.Before embarking to specific treatment you need to visit your dermatologist  for a thorough investigation  of your thyroid state including physical examination and blood test.

There are some of the modifications that you need to make in your life style for a maximum benefits These include enough sleep, regular excercise, watching your diet, staying hydrated by drinking 6to 8 glasses of water depending on your hydration level.Reducing baths and showers to an alternate day routine with practically warm temperatures. Avoid soaps and harsh cleansers since it will result in aging,wrinkle formation and cracked skin.Look for cleaners with aelovera gel, Calendula, oatmeals and honey.Avoid soaps containing fragrances,parabeans and sodium laurel sulphate. Keep the room temperature low and the humidity high.

Look for skin care products containing:

Retinol as it is an antioxidant that boosts cell production and eliminate dying cells

Vitamin C containing products these also as antioxidant and detoxifies and protects against  UV rays.

COQ10  containing products for antioxidant affect and antiwrinkle, use plant base product.

Hyaluronic Acid traps moisture and improve skin suppleness 

Oil usage for extra dry skin, such as almond oil,olive oil and jojoba oil. Do not forget coconut oil.

Sun screens :Use creams with SPF 30 or higher  and water resistant.

Check labels for allergic reaction triggers.Also take a skin test before using a new product if in doubt.

Here we are!! with suggestions and life style changes that you have to consider making to get a maximum benefit  for your thyroid sensative skin . Be patient and teat your skin gentle.

 

Expectional skincare according to your age:

As we age,our skin is thinner, more fragile and we lose some of our protective fat layer.One becomes less sensative  to touch, pressure, vibration,heat and cold.with aging the outer skin layer the epidermis thins out even though the number of cell layers remain unchanged.The number of pigment- containing cells the melanocytes decreases and the remaining melanocytes increase in size.Aging skin looks thinner,paler and clear(transulant). Pigmented spots,including age spots and liver spots may appear in sun exposed areas (lentigos).

Changes in the connective tissue reduces the skin strength  and elasticity. This is known as elastosis.It is more noted in the sun exposed areas (Solar elastosis).It produces leathery weather beaten appearance. Sebaceous glands produce less oil as you age especially  after menopause.This makes it harder to keep the skin moist,resulting in dryness and itching. The subcutaneous  fat layer thins out resulting in less and less insulation and padding.This increases skin injury and reduces your ability  to maintain temperature. The sweat gland produce less sweat,this makes it hard to keep cool resulting in increased  risk of over heating and developing a heat stroke.

Loss of muscle tone and thinning  of the skin gives the face a flabby drooping  appearance, sagging creates a double chin.The cartilage around the face thins out especially  around  the nose.

Othe changes include allergies to clothing, household  chemicals and non- cancerous skin growths.Sun exposure leads to skin cancer including basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma.The aging skin repairs itself slowly than the younger skin. Wound healing  may be up to four times slower.

Skin aging is inevitable, however you can prevent  it from Happening by understanding  what happens  to your skin as you age and to know what you should  be doing to keep it looking its best.The changes in your skin  are largely  dependent on factors such as life style, diet,skin tone and genetics.ln order to keep you skin healthy eat right by eating lots of  fresh fruits and vegetables, enjoy regular excercise, avoid smoking and excessive alcohol. Adopt a regular skin care regemine. Stay out of the sun.Drink plenty of water according to your level of hydration.Get rested as when you sleep your body releases hormones that promotes cell turnover and renewal. Add antioxidant  such as flavonoids,carotenoid  and vitamins such as ACDE and omega3 fatty acids to you diet.

Stages of aging:

Age 25, the first sign of aging appears around 25 ,when the skin begins to thin ,lose elasticity and wrinkles began to form.

Age 45 to 55, the skin continues to thin and becomes less firm and radiant.

Age 65to 75,skin ages exponentially. 

Skincare routines to slow the sign of agging:

Age 25 to 35 years old

Nighly cleanse, tone and moisturise. Exfoliate with AHA or BHA or enzyme depending  on your skin type twice a week Add antioxidant such as VitC,and VitE and peptides to your skin routine.

Age 35 to 45 years old : you will use productd containing AHA, BHA Retinol, pigment Lightner such as arbutin and hydroquinone..... only under the supervision  of your health care provider in order to avoid side effects such as rash,inflammation and onchronosis antioxidant products  containing Vit C and Vit E,resveratrol  and sun screen. 

Age 45 to 55 years old :Products containing AHA or BHA, Retinol, pigment lightness such as products containing licorice, hydroquinone .....only under the supervisionof a healthcare provider.Stem cell therapy and various growth factors.occlusive moisturizers and broad spectrum sunscreen.Think of adding botox and dermal fillers for an uplift of the sagging skin.

Age 55 years and older: Products containing AHAor BHA, Retinol, pigment lightening containing products  such as arbutin, hydroquinone........only under the supervision of a health care provider and licorice.Occlusive moisturizers such as night creams . Broad spectrum sun screen. Think of adding botox and dermal fillers if needed.

Microdermabrasion, microneeding,light peels and laser treatments can be added as adjuvant therapies.

Never sleep with your make up on always use a cleanser to remove the makeup.

Get professional  help whenever you can especially  around special occasions. If your budget  allows add a monthly facial to your routine by visiting your skin therapist.It will give you an idea of what changes have taken place in your skin and how can you address them with your skin therapist help.

The hardest part of getting old is deteriorating physcial and mental health and accepting changes in your skin appearance .Getting old is not all that bad infact somethings in life gets better with age.Stay happy and healthy. 

 

ARTICAL IINFORMATION: Dermatoendocrinal 2011 July-sep 3(3):211-215 published on line July 1 2011.

FACIAL TREATMENTS:

Facial treatments are the most important aspect  of a good skin care routine,whether you do it at home in your comfort zone or plan to visit a spa depends on you what you are in mood for including your budgeting sense if that is your goal for the day or a sense of getting pampered is your objective today.Whichever you choose you are going to feel luxuriously well rejuvenated and pampered especially if you make a choice  to go to a spa ,since you are at the mercy of a well trained skin therapists who is going to perform  a thorough  skin consultation and choose a facial according to your skin need, which you may not be able to achieve  on your own. Let the journey begins 

When you first enter through the door of your favorite spa you feel immediately relaxed as you hear the familar music, the nostalgic  smell of your favorite scent enters your nostrils making you feel relaxed.The next step is a warm greetings from you own favorite skin therapist who greets you with a smile and breaks your thoughts by say hello there!! Calling you by your first name  Are you ready for your facial??.you respond by a reciprocal smile and answering that you are ready.The next step that follows is to direct you to your facial chair and instructs you where to store your belongings and what part of clothing needs to be removed including any jewelry that you might be wearing 

Instructions how to prepare your self for the treatment by wearing the facial wrap and getting comfortable on the chair .This is followed by decollate draping leaving  the shoulders bare.Covering the hair with towel or a hair band.A kee bolster is placed under your knees for support and comfort and a pillow under your head for extra cushioning. She is ready to go to the next step as she has already set up the supply table for you and the towel warmer is ready too.

STEPTS  TO THE FACIAL TREATMENT:

1- CONSULTATION AND SKIN ANALYSIS:This part  of the facial takes about 15 minutes and consists of analyzing your skin thoroughly, determining your fritzpatrick skin type which is based on your ancestry,the different skins conditions including a normal skin, dry skin, oily skin and sensative skin.This is also the time for the therapist to start questioning your about the concern that you have and then she collaborate these concerns with her own assessments ,it is followed by the different skin care products that she chooses and discussing what she will be doing today.

2- CLEANSING :Is the next step,she starts this step by a warm towel from the warmer as it soften and moisturize  the skin.During this step she removes all the dirt and makeup using a gentle cleanser according to your skin condition.She performs a second quick analysis on cleansed skin.

3-EXFOLIATION:This step take about 10 minutes and involves a process of exfoliation either with an exfoliant,brush machine or a superficial peel.This procedure increase the cell turnover,removes the most  superficial layer of skin and help in better penetration of skin care products. The various method include chemical exfoliation with alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid.The second method is called  the mechanical exfoliation with microdermabrasion ,brush machine and enzyme peels the enzyme peels include papain, bromelin and pumpkin peels.The clients with sensative skin and the first user of exfolients are the best example of client who can benefit from these enzyme peels

Before using any exfolients  on a client wether  mechanical or chemicals also go through the contraindications with the client you can find a detailed  list in journey through esthetics page (197).Also a narrated detail of the correct  method of doing the chemical peel and the microdermabrasion on pages (198 to 206).microdermabrasion and chemical peels may take longer then 10 minutes.Always bear caution with the degree of confort or discomfort  you feel with the treatment ant let the therapist  know about it.

4-STEAMING is highly recommended  in a regular facial OR a facial in clients with acne before extractions .Do not use steaming in clients on who you are performing  the microdermabrasion and chemical peel with AHA and bha.

5- EXTRATIONS: These are performed in with in 8 to 10 minute of time frame to extract  impurities from the pores and Cleansing the follicles.A detail  account is mentioned  in the journey through esthetics page (206).

6-MASSAGE: This can be performed after steaming taking 5 to 10 minutes to enhance relaxation, increase blood circulation  and to increase better penetration of the skin care products. Message relives stress and does not cause it therefore  a gentle  message technique is suggested. A full ancounter  with facial message is given in journey through esthetics chapter (10).

7- MASK TREATMENT:This involves applying various  types of masks for example a hydrating mask for normal skin to mature skin,a charcoal mask for acne.Masks are applied with fan brushes and removed with warm facial towels or sponges in a shot facial procedure.

8- TONING. The toner can be applied after extraction or after the mask removal. This will cause constriction of the pores making the texture smooth.

9-SERUM AND EYE AND LIP TREATMENTS: These include antioxidant containing skin care products like vit C and vit E.application are left over the skin with a gentle message.

10- MOISTURIZER TREATMENT:This restores the skin Barrier  and retain moisture and tike the toner and the serum are left on the skin surface. 

11-SUNSCREEN PROTECTION.This is the final step in facial treatment and is the most important one.The sun screens include the physical and the chemical agent,the first one stays on the surface and blocks sun rays penetration and the second one blocks by pentrating into the skin.

After completing the service,the therapist will guide you to sit up slowly change clothing and meet with her in the reception area for a post service consultation which includes how satisfied you were with the service, the product recommendations for the home care use and schedule  your next appointment after a month.

What do you think how else can you feel so special.Take my advice and book your self a facial no matter it is a special occasion or you want to make it a special occasion you will not regret it.

 

 

STRESSED SKIN INCLUDING REMADIES: As we know our bodies are regulated by various hormones including a very important one called cortisol. It is relased by our adrenal glands and is regulated by hypothalamuic-pitutary- adrenal axis in the brain.It is called the stress hormone also known as the fright and flight hormone of our bodies,regulated through the sympathetic nervous system. Long term stress can be determinal to our physical and mental well- being.It is elevated at the time of stress and goes down in levels at the time of relaxation. Since a raised level of cortisol puts the body into stress mode resulting in affecting your nervous system, digestive system and immune system. Normally cortisol will help in regulating heart rate,blood pressure, weight appetite and body metabolism,blood suger and insulin levels. Therefore when we are in chronic stress it will result in headaches,memory problems, brain fog, insomnia, fatigue, hard time relaxing,moodyness,feeling of overwhelmed, increased use of drugs,alcohol and cigarettes, weakened immune system, pre-diabetic body state and skin changes.The physcial finding include thining and bruising of the skin weight gain especially around the abdomen and between the shoulder blades.muscles aches and pains especially around the neck and the legs.Cortisol  levels peak between 7 amto 8.am in the morning and lowest between  the hours of 2.pm to 4.pm.Your cortisol level can be measured by a blood test,urine test ans saliva test.It is always a good idea to visit your endocrinologist for a thoroughly testing and they will guide you from here.

SKIN AND CORTISOL: Elevated level of cortisol can negatively affect the largest in the body called the skin.Abnormally high levels of cortisol results in break down of dermal proteins called collagen and elastin resulting in thinning, easy bruising and tearing of the skin, sagging ,dryness , dullness and wrinkling from disfunction of the skin barrier.It also results in activating the inflammatory cascade resulting in inflammatory dermatitis including Rosacea, psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis and acne and dark spots and infection.The pathogenesis behind  acne production is imbalance hormones especially in peri and post menopausal women.Raised cortisol also causes hairloss and peeling of the nails.

LIFE STYLE CHANGES:There are lots of tips and specifics that can help you change your lifestyle to a calm state of mind resulting in healthy mind, body,immune system and skin.

1.Eat a wholesome plant based diet. A diet full of added sugar and processed food will raise your blood pressure  and also resulting in diabetes.Make sure that you that you take enough fruit vegetables and fibre in your diet.Eat dark chocolate that is rich in flavonols and polyphenols.It also increases your brain growth hormone. Always eat raw chocolate with less sugar. Try including extra-virgin oil in your diet as it has an anti inflammatory affect.Proteins intake is essential for maintaining your metabolism as restricted protein can leucine in your diet resulting in increased stress hormones. Avoid eating late at night especially sugery junk food.

2.Drink plenty of water properly hydrating your body according to your hydration levels.

3.Green tea and Chamomile tea: Green tea is an excellent  source of theanine.....an amino acid that helps in reducing cortisol, at the same time increasing GABA and dopamine  in the brain.Chamomile tea is a rich source of flavonoids.There is a supplement available in the market that contains both thiamine and Chamomile can be prescribe by your doctor. 

4.Limit alcohol and caffeine intake as coffee has protective affect against dementia.

5.Add certain supplements in your diet including ginkgo biloba,ginseng, omega 3 more than omega 6 as omega 6 can increase the cortisol levels.Omega 3 will help in restoring normal brain and fight against depression and dementia. Supplements such as vitmanC ,E and B12 and folic acid are included in your daily intake.Always seek the help of a medical physician for prescription of these supplements. For hairloss try adding biotin and for nail peeling issues add vitamin D and folic acid as supplements. 

6.Take curcumine with turmeric better for both brain and mental health.

7.Incorporate adequate excersises in your routine including breathing excersises.The regular excersises include at least spending 30 to 40 minutes twice a week.Avoid over exerting your self.Avoid heavy strenuous excercise late at night.

8.Indulge yourself in hobbies like gardening, playing instruments, Taking walks with pets, admire the nature around you.laughing releases endorphins, listen  to the music, practice yoga.Try spending socializing as it releases oxytocin, decreasing anxiety  and depression. Try spending time meditating especially spiritually, make your connection with yourself and your creator. 

9.Donot let fear govern your life styles relax and enjoy your gift of life.Improve your posture,stand tall and relax not with slumped shoulder.

10.Take plenty of ful night sleep at least 7 to 8 hours.wake up relax.try taking a glass of warm water with half of lemon.

11.For the skin care follow a daily routine for healthy skin.If you have acne try using beta hydroxy acid with salicylic acid with spot treatments.For sagging and wrinkle treatments there are a number of treatments available including Elemis ultra smart pro collagen genius night cream. For serum use FC ferulic serum by skinceuticals.A serum with vitamin C and E are good choices such as C12 pure bright serum twice daily .Hydrate your skin with LA Roche Posay's containing hyaluronic acid or active moist by dermologica. As there is issue with flakyness of the skin do not for get to increase the turn over of the cell by including a retinal cream  such as over night retinol repair least twice a week mixed with a Moisturizer. Discontinue  its use 72 hours before waxing or exfoliation  treatment.Consult a physcian before using over night retinol repair when pregnent.Never forget a nice potant SPF in your routine containg zinc oxide ,iron oxide and titanium oxide.The best choice recommended is pure light SPF 50 if there is an issue with hperpigmentation Otherwise sheer tint SPF 20 is a good choice. 

12.Go for a fun activity such as a facials and body messages.choose a spa of your choice with your choice of music.

13.if you are having problems losing hair, try adding eggs,lots of veggies and wheat in your diet.To add proteins in your diet, try adding chicken broth or clear chicken soup to your daily diet especially during winter months.Message you hair using a combination of casteroil and olive oil at warm temperatures washing them after one hour. Try herbal remedies for hair dying such as henna,it will color your hair and provide relaxation at the same time. For nail peeling/ thinning nail use caster oil message,add spinach and kale to your diet.

The list of things to do was long in today's blog however lot of it was fun stuff.....relax relax and relax. Enjoy work and home.Do not over exert yourself doing any actvity.Avoid confronting situations at work and home.Laughing and taking it easy are the two best remedies for lowering your cortisol levels ,try implementing there ideas into you daily life.Donot always make your every activity a routine, sitting back and relaxing a few minutes or during your lunch time will make a big difference. Always try including your family ,friends and colleagues in a positive way.Have fun stress is out!!!.

 

 

 

PREMATURE AGING; DO YOU HAVE THE SIGNS".

There are number of theories around premature skin aging that help us understand the process of aging better.A better understanding of the root cause of aging will help us better determine the various methods to slow the early onset ,the progression and may be reverse a few signs of aging.Let us begin searching for the clues that are present in our bodies that will put the puzzle together and complete the entire painting of human aging on our canvas. The various theories revolveing around  genetics,theory of evolution and the various biochemical reactions.Genetically predermined syndromes are called Progeria and the inherited conditions are called as Hutchinson-Gilford syndrome a d Werner syndromes ,both of these causes premature aging and skin thining called atrophy.Before moving any further let's know the difference between biological aging and the chronological aging.Biological age is the true age is the true age of cells,tissues and the organs.The chronological age is the number of birthdays that you have celebrated  since you were born.Both ages are affected  by the intrinsic and the extrinsic factors that we are exposed to in our environment. At age 16 the biological and the chronological ages are the same and at age 60,there is a wide spread gap.The researchers have found that participants who appear who appear younger than  their chronological age had gene expression that matches that of younger age group due to collagen production.This is one of the example how the various extrinsic and the intrinsic factor play an important role in your true age determination influenced by your life style.

The various extrinsic factors as we know from our earlier discussion include external environmental factors ,the major stressor is the sun-light other include extreme of weather conditions including extreme old and hot weather.The other extrinsic factors include life styles changes like excercise and walking. The social factors include income class,education which can accelerate or decelerate the process of aging. Shortening of the telemeres caps at the end on our DNA (deoxyoribo nucleic acid) protects us from aging and when these sequences are shortened these result in  genetic mutations and aging.This shortening of the telomers is affected by socio-economic factors,education levels,body weight and excercise. These studies were done ar the Yale university. Smoking is a very important factor after sun-light to be mentioned as it accelerate signs of aging causing skin sagging,fine lines and wrinkles. 

The intrinsic factors include what we put in our bodies, the various supplement deficiencies, hormones influences including estrogen,progestrone and testosterone and how their fluctuations affects the way our skin looks like.For example acne and rosacea is more common during the younger years and thinning of the skin,dryness and flaking is more common in older years including after menopause in female and andropause in men,according to mayoclinic.Both gender show several other changes during their lifetime that affect their external appearances in their younger and older years,these include the bone densities, anemia, muscle mass,weight fluctuations, hair loss and thinning.The skin appearance is also affected by the comorbitites that include diabetes,dementia and cardiovascular diseases.Other hormones like thyroid and cortisol can affect the skin aging resulting in acne,roscea,fine lines and wrinkles. 

REMADIES TO SLOWS THE SIGNS OF AGING;

 Behavior changes. 

Healthy habits.

Prevent disease from happening 

Give up smoking.

Always protecting from direct and indirect sun light.

Eating healthy,staying away from junk food.

Taking care of the nutritional deficiencies. Adding antioxidants to your diet.

Drinking water according to your hydration levels.

Regular excercises at least 30 to40 minutes/ twice a week.

To combact sagging and wrinkling the use of fillers such as restylane, scalpta and juvederm. For wrinkles the use of botox.All of these procedures are done by professional trained in the field.

Laser treatments for improving the tone and texture of the skin.

For the over all health of your skin follow a routine including cleansing,toning,serm application, moisturizing and regular use of sun screen.

Retinoids the family of compounds coming from the family of retinols(vitamin A) or its derivatives such as tretinon.These increase the cell turnover over, increased collagen production, reverse the sign of aging.

Peptides:These are the building blocks of building blocks of collagen and elastin production that gives structures to the skin.improve collagen production  for a fullar youthful appearance. 

VitaminC: Protects the skin from from radical damage caused by UVA andUVB rays.Also promote collagen production improving firmness softening fine lines and wrinkles. 

AHA.Alpha hydroxy acid including lactic and glycolic acids  that removes the top layer of the skin called the stratum cornium resulting in smoother skin and better penetration  of the skin care products.Also getting rid of dry and flaky skin.

Hyaluronic acid for skin Moisturizer .

SPF at least 30 to preventing premature aging.

Getting regular facials one month apart.

This is the back ground of premature aging and some of the remadies that I am sharing with you today. We have talked about all these remedies in our previous blogs however today it is special because we learnt about the genetic aspect of aging along with the various factors affecting our bodies that can ultimately affect the way your skin looks including your mental and physical health, your overall knowledge of the subject.well well .....we are here to do that.Close your eyes take a deep breath....it time to defy your age.

 

 

 

HISTORIC EVOLUTION IN SKIN CARE:

The first skin care regmine was found in Egypt 3000 BCE.Egyptian were oftentimes entombed with their favorite serums to ease their transition into after life.They used olive oil,ostrich eggs, dough and essential oils made from herbs and plants to address their skin concerns. Cleopatra was known to have bathe in sour milk to smooth her skin.Sour milk contains alpha hydroxy acid called the lactic acid that is now commonly used in chemical peels to improve  the skin tone and texture. Egyptians also used aleovera and sand to exfoliate their skin and olive oil with clay paste for deep cleansing. For make up they ground up metals to be used as eyeshadows,since the light projected created a shiny radiance. The eye liner was made out of a mixture of lead, almonds,soot and copper encorporated into animal fat.This concoction not only protected them from the sun and the insects, these would honor their gods.

Cosmetic have been mentioned  in the old testament, where Jazebal painted her eyelids approximately 840 BC

Amercian indian used grounded corn to exfoliate  and purify their skin.These date back to 1000 to 2000 BCE.They. were paleoindian known as the early settlers in amercia.Yucca soap was used to wash hair, skin and clothing.Also worth a mention is using prickly pear for strengthening skin and hair Later studies show that it contains vitman E, Argon oil for mature skin and Vitmin K for brightening and removing dark circles under the eyes.

The Greeks viewed body as a temple, therefore they frequently  bathe in olive oil and dusted their bodies with fine sand to regulate their body temperature and protect the from the sun.They understood the affects of natural elements on their bodies and aging process.They were driven by perfection that is what made them prominent in advance grooming and skin care.

The ancients Romans were known  for their baths and these were public buildings with separate section for men and women. Fragrances made from flowers, saffron, almonds were made part of bathing and grooming rituals.

In Mongolia the royal families painted red spots in the center of their cheeks under the eyes as a reason to be a happy queen. 

Japanese  geshia wore lipsticks made out of safflower patels,rice powder covered the face and the back.Black color painted the teeth for the ceremony  called Erikea.

The African  about 4000 years back and grooming  aids from material found in nature.The tree twigs fom mignonette are used as tooth picks to prevent oral and tooth disease.

Maya utilized color red to promote social class and the material used was derived from mucery, lead and arsenic.Red color represented luxury. The body was considered as their portraits painted with various images of plant,animals and humans.Other images included personal designs including geometry. 

The medieval Era called the pre moderation European, pungent herbal remedies and ointments were used in animal fat.Seed,leaves and flowers were ground up and mixed in honey to create hydrating masks.

Late medieval period brings moguls conquests to india 1526 to 1858 .The mogul were considered people of great cultural and beauty admirers, they were known for their aesthetic sense in terms of admiring human to building  architectural wonders like Tajmahal to agriculture. The women used sandalwood as an antiseptic and germicidal mixed in turmeric and gram flour as "obtan "for exfoliation around the face and body.Amla oil was used for hair loss.Henna was used for dying hair and for creating intricate designs on the hand, feet and body. Kajal the black eyeliner is still used today also called Surma.The moguls queens used torquise, embrald and pearl  powder for eye makeup. Neem leaves are still used for their antiseptic and purifying properties in toothpaste.

During the Renaissance period the women applied bread soaked into rose water. During this period Europe made the transition from medieval to modern history. Fragrances and cosmetics were use less, bright colored lipsticks, cheeks and eyes were discouraged. During the period of extravagance women bath in stewberries and milk,used scented powder made out of starch and used silk patches to cover blemishes. 

During the Victorian area modesty was greatly valued and make up was not in vogue. skin care products made out of honey milk and oat meal, vegetables and fruits were used.

During the 1800, excercise and cleanliness became important. Light skin was greatly admired therefore a mixture  of zinc oxide and lemon were used for a brightener complexion 

In the 1900 hundreds, the skin care industry took a turn.People became beech goers therefore in 1935 the first sun screen called "Ambre Solarie "was invented using benzoyl salicylate as UV ray absorber. In 1906 Loreal, Elizabeth Arden, Maybelline and maxfacter launched a  range of skincare products.

LED therapy was discovered in 1903 by Nobel prize winner  Niel Finsen, initially called phototherapy was primarily used in Eastern Europe for the treatment of chronic pain and arthritis and later for fineline and acne.In the 1920 Hollywood had an influential impact on cosmetic industry. At one time in history makeup was allowed only for the theater performers.

Dr Horward Murad was the first physcian to create his own brand of skincare products in 1989.

In 2003, a sealed pot of oldest face cream was discovered at a Roman temple in South London. The first cold cream was created by a greek physcian named Glen .The product was made out of water, olive oil, bee wax and floral oils.

Marilyn Monroe wore Vaseline and navea cream under her makeup. 

In the 1946 Estee Lauder launches their cosmetic  line in newyork. 

Around the 1960,came the laser treatments and IPL to target body hair,acne scars and pigmentation.In the 1970 the chemical peels were the must have procedures for skin resurfacing treatments, initially phenol and trichloacetic acid peels were introduced which were later replaced by gentler peels like glycolic and lactic acid.

During the 1996,microdermabrasion was introduced based on the principles of wound healing by removing the superficial layer of the skin with diamond tips pads or a constant flow of crystals to stimulate cell renewl and collagen for smooth healthier skin.

During  the 2000, came the beauty technologies creating a wave of inoffice and at home devices.while miconeedling is a fairly new concept,the origin of it can be traced back to acupuncture in ancient Asia. Today microneeding can successfully address wrinkles scars, sun spots and uneven texture.In 2002 FDA approved Botox for the treatment of fine lines and wrinkles on the face. Retinol such as tretinon was getting added to the skin regmines and became the most popular product of the 21century along with filler for volume depletion.The same century did also bring the concepts of total body relaxation by visits to the spas and beauty salon at an escalated pace.In the countries world  wide a visit to the salon ar a the spa is a must have necessity called the "beauty parlor" visit before the important events such as weddings.

The time after the first world War made cosmetic surgery initiated its presence, face-lift became the must have procedures in the 1920 .

Here are some of the historical facts about the origin of the skin care products, just outling a short narrative.  explaining how skincare has evolved and  has been the center of attraction for both the sexes  for a long period  of time and as far as the ancient time, there were times when makeup was not approved off followed by extravagant use of makeup to define facial features or to express a povital point.The wisdom is that humans have learned from the nature, their kitchen, their laboratories has compiled the facts according to era incorporated them and moved on.As we receive the benefits we pass them on to the next generation and the next!!!.

 

 

 

• SKIN AND HYDRATION: we humans can survive without food for several days, however surviving without water for even a few hours under normal temperatures is close to impossible, therefore water is considered to be the most important element for human existence on this planet,as all other creatures need water to be able to sustain life.The recommended dose of water for men is 13 cups of water i.e about 3liter/day.for women it is about 9 cups a day or over two litre/day.pregnant women should drink about 10 cups/days and breast feeding females  about 12 cups a day. Always remember this is an approximation and the increase or decrease in water consumption also depends on the level of activity, age and weight.

We are all well aware of the fact that skin is the largest organ of our body,and in order to maintain a supple well hydrated skin we need to moisture it and what can be a better and the most inexpensive form of Moisturizer then water itself.It take  dehydrated skin to its full moisturized state about 4 weeks.

Our skin is made of three layers; the outer most layer is the stratum corneum, this layers important function is to keep harmful substances out from entering our body. It also  makes surethat excessive levels of water do not leave the body.This is also called the transepidermal water loss.(TWEL). Skin is made up of 64 % of water.Properly hydrated body maintains the skin tone.if it is dehydrated you take a simple test and take a pinch.The skin will loose its ability to come back a d later when it is properly hydrated it will bounce right back.As we age we loose density due to collagen and elastin breakdown we end up with sagging fine lines and wrinkles, along with it our ability to retain water is reduced.our skin becomes more dehydrated.Do we know the difference between dehydration and dryness ??. Dehydration means the water is less and dryness means the natural oiliness of the skin is less.Hydration will make the skin supple However will not make those finelines and wrinkles disappear.For that we have the botox,and dermal fillers. Similarly drinking water will not cure acne since it is multifactoral including environmental and genetics however it helps removing dryness,detox the body remove wastes, declog pore and help heal acne.

CAUSES OF DEHYDRATION:

• Not drinking enough water.
• Spending time in extreme temperatures without proper hydration.
• Using harsh chemicals,soaps and detergents .
• Using excessive exfoliants,like rough sponges and exfoliants such as suger and salt.
• Taking long hot baths.
• Thyroid disfunction .
• Menopause.
• Diabetes .
• Sjogren's syndrome.
• Poor nutrition. 

PREVENTION OF DEHYDRATION:

Limits your showers to 5to 10 minutes/day.

Use gentle soap,detergents and cosmetics. 

Turn on the humidifier during winters.

Drink the recommended quantity of water throughout the day.Since hydration will calm the inflammatory factors down.

Consume food like nuts,seeds,avocado and fish oil, as these can have a positive effect on skin hydration  levels

Over use of alpha and beta hydroxy acids can result in dehydration as compared to polyhydroxy acid (PHA).Sine these have a high molecular weight as compared to alpha and beta hydroxy acids,these are less irritating white exfoliating and moisturize at the same time.

Use products containing Niacinamide and ceramides  as these support collagen production and promote the skin barrier function.

Use hyaluronic acid and Glycerin as Moisturizer 

Use hydrating masks after exfoliants or waxing to smooth out irritation  

Treat the rest of the body like your face with creams and lotions containing lactic acid to encourage hydration

ECZEMA is also the major cause of a disrupted skin barrier caused by lack of long chain ceramides resulting in TEWL and dryness . Irritants and allergens are able to reach the lower layers of skin thus weakening the skin barrier. Hydrocortisone  like anti inflammatory  treatment can lower the immune system and help relieve the itching.Learning about the eczema and the skin microbiomes is also very important as these skin bacteria  also make part of the skin barrier and disruption lead to over growth of harmful bacteria and colonization 

Medication, age, weight, diet and environment can change the healthy microbiomes resulting in disrupted skin acid mantle and the skin barrier.

PRODUCTS TO MAINTAIN SKIN MOISTURE:These products should include the following ingredients. 

1. Humectants,like glycerine, hyaluronic acid and urea, lactic and glycolic  acidThese ingredients will pull water in from the air and the deeper layers of skin into the stratum cornium to add moisture. 

2. Occlusive agents,like bee wax,soybean and lanolin helping the skin barrier this preventing evaporation of water.

3. Emollients like coconut,Shea butter and colloidal oat meal can add softness to the skin.

COMMON OVER THE COUNTER MOISTURIZERS

1.Ultra repair,cream intense hydration by first aid beauty.

2.Kielh's ultra facial advance barrier repair cream

3.Loreal midnight cream.

RECOMMENDED MASKS FOR HYDRATION:

Home made avocado, honey and temuric mask.

Alevora,honey and lemon mixture mask .

Oatmeal mask for sensative skin by dermologica .

The scenario here is how to keep the whole body moist, prevent the TWEL and strengthen the skin barrier.Always keep in mind dehydration and dryness are two different skin conditions, one follows the other.Try treating the root cause of the problem.Keep the daily skin regmine simple and with less skin products to use.Less is better!! Always read the label by figuring out what are the skin needs and what are you aiming at.One can't stress more for not to over exfoliating the skin.Be gentle.Always replenish your water supply throughout the day for a better beautiful skin.Did you drink enough for today!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

SKIN AND LONGIVITY: Ageing is a slowly progressive process which in lay term is also called" time passing by,"" affecting our chronological and biological age as we go through different phases of life, starting from being born than going through childhood followed by adulthood and later old age.This has been a hot topic for discussions over all those centuries ever since human were born.The acients saw aging as a natural process that can be eased or delayed through preventive measures such as diet.(Glen the Greek physcian).The human life span has more than doubled in the developed world since the 1800.Thanks to improved publis health,hygiene  and medicine

The acient greek goddess Klotho has scientific association  with anti-aging properties therefore the gene related to ageing is called the Klotho gene .By the age of 40 the levels of Klotho gene decreases,as we age this gene regulates a protein called Wnt5a that advances the spread of cancerous cells and causes treatment resistance.Other longevity genes include APOE,FOXO3 and CETP genes.These  genes are not found in all individuals with exceptional  longevity (medline plus).The aging process is influenced by environment and the lifestyle. The Gene variants that contribute to longivity  are involved  with basic maintenance and functions  of the body.These cellular functions include DNA repair, maintainance of the ends of the chromosomes regions called the telomers, protection of the cells from damage by unstable oxygen  containing molecules called free radicals. (Pubmed central).

The face changes around 40's and50'.The loss of elasticity take place around late 20's depending on your genetics.It is however more common around  the early 30 to 40 years of age.

Skin is the largest organ in the human body, accounting for 10% to15% of the total body weight.The skin has its own surveillance system to intercept and destroy toxins and microbes from the external environment. It has the capacity to regenerate and repair its self (RussellGoldman).

There are intrinsic and the extrinsic determine how the skin ages .Intrinsic disposition include genetic make up, cellular metabolism, hormonal balance.The extrinsic include the environmental  influences,nutrition and lifestyle.Therefore skin ageing is a byproduct  of interplay  between intrinsic and Extrinsic factors that influence   cellular functioning  and cells both within the three different layers of skin as well as the microbiomes sitting on top of the skin.A decline  in DNA repair capacity and melanin leads to increased sensativity to UV radiation resulting in increased risk of photoaging induced carcinogenisis.Each individual skin ages in a unique way based on their intrinsic and Extrinsic vulnerabilities. A dysfunction between the intrinsic and Extrinsic factors can lead to eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis, autoimmune disorders and skin cancer.

As we age there is loss of denfence against the the oxidative stress resulting in increased production of ROS.As the ROS accumulate it results in organelles damage such as mitochondria  and increased number of mutations. Boosting the skin ability to deal with ROS is a powerful preventive approach to address aging

Another major factor to mention here in the process of ageing is role of inflammation. Chronic inflammation initiates a self perpetuating loop of damage and disfunction that results in production of cytokines ,these cause damage of healthy cells and tissue.These cytokines also inhibit the proliferation of stem calls restraining their regenerative capacity.Because inflammation disrupts the intercellular signaling environment it can accelerate ageing both in the skin and other organs of the body.

The third major process of cellular ageing that need mentioning is cell senescence that is the cells stop replicating resulting in cell death resistance, there is increased production of inflammatory  Metalloprotienases (MMP).that results in breakdown of collagen and elastin  resulting in skin sagging and wrinkling. 

Autophagy plays an important  role in clearing dead cells and damaged components  such as ECM proteins, mitochondria, the process is called proteostasis(recycling garbage).when the skin is exposed to UV rays there is a loss of the process of proteostasis in dermal fibroblasts resulting in photoaging. 

Enough  of the serious stuff,as it was essential to explain what goes on at the cellular level.Now let us switch Gare and talk about preventing the process of skin aging, how we can keep our skin beautiful and youthful.

LIFE STYLE ANTI-AGING CHANGES.

1.protect the bare skin from the sun

2.Apply self tanners instead of bathing in the sun.

3.Eat health balanced diet full of nutrients such as fresh fruits, vegetables legumes,nuts,flax seeds,fish meat etc

4.Excercise 2 to 3 times a week.

5 Sufficiently hydrate yourself.

6.Add supplements to your diet.

7.avoid omega6 containg foods like corn oil,margarine, mayonnaise.

8.Less animal fat.

9.Eat less processed food and more antiaging foods such as kale,spinich.grain, broccoli, dark chocolate and beatroot,pomegranate. 

10.Avoid too much dairy products.

11.Eat less calories and try concentrating on fasting at least for 12 hours if you body allow under the supervision of a physcian.

12.Optamize sleep for at least 8 hours.

13.AVOID repetitive facial movements.

14.Avoid alcohol. 

SKIN LONGIVITY PROMOTING DAILY ROUTINE.

1.Gentle cleansing,avoid anything that strips your skin off the Moisturizer, if you feel squeak clean after washing your face you have a harsh cleansers at hand.Suggestion is Cera vea hydrating facial cleanser.

2 .Add antioxidant  to your routine such as niacinamide and vitamin C Serum.Suggestion is Cera Vea vitamin C serum or dermalogica biolumin C gel Moisturizer. 

3.Add a good Moisturizer containing hyaluronic acid in it.Suggestion Cera Vea moisturizing lotionor dermalogica intensive moisture balance.

4.Never leave your home without the application of a good spf.Suggestion Cera Vea Spf lotion.or dermalogica dynamic skin recovery spf 50.

5.Evening routine must include a Retinoid.since it stimulate collagen and increases the turnover. Use it at least 2 times a week.Suggestion dermalogica dynamic retinol skin serum.

6.Exfoliate on the nights when not using retinoids,it will help with breatout and clogged pores.Suggestion dermologica microfoliant scrub,apply with gentle movements. 

7.You can add a ceramide or a peptides to your routine ,Suggestion overnight repair serum,revitalizing treatment by dermologica. 

8.Finally always go to bed with a thin layer of Moisturizer containing hyaluronic acid.Suggestion hydration serum with hyaluronic acid by dermologica. 

We have come so far in the scientific research to come up with the causes of ageing, prevention and treatments Always stay deligant and consistent when following a routine. Never forget the rest of your body beside the face.Keep your daily routine simple and manageable,so that while doing that you are not overwhelmed.

Be fun-loving and easing going on on yourself.laugh and enjoy life without causing finicial stress.Remember beautiful things are something for free as a walk in a park,a loving conversation with your loved one,or just sitting on a bench in a park for free fresh air to breath.Live a long happy life by paying attention to small things and enjoy their presence amongst yourself.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THE HOLY GRAIL OF TOPICAL SKIN CARE CALLED VITMAN A: As  we all live in a world dominated by media we seek for idea to better ourselves at all cost.We wish that we have a magical concoction that can help us look like some one we admir, such as a movie star or a model. How can we achieve this....... we go through  mazgines, articles looking for that one special product that can satisfy our quest for vanity. Well look no further your adorable product ingredient is right under you nose called vitman A.This is one ingredient if present in your skin care products can do the trick.Let dig a little bit deeper to find out what is this the truth sciene behind  this vamzical skin care product  ingredient  called vitman A.

Vitman A is a fat souble vitman.It encompasses a group  of chemically related compounds that includes Retinol, Retinal and known as retinaldehyde, Retinoic acid and several provitmain precursors  carotenoids such as beta carotene. Vitman A serves several essential functions in the body.

It is essential for embryos development.

For the maintenance of immune system.

For vision maintenance where it combines  win opsins to form rhidopsins.... the light absorbing molecules that are essential for low light and colored vision.

         Formula for vitman A is C20H30O.

It occurs in two forms in the food.Retinol,found in animal sources as Retinol or bind to a retinyl ester.The second form is carotenoids, alpha, beta and gamma carotene. 

Dietary Retinol  is absorbed from the gastrointestinal tract through passive diffusion.Storage of the Retinol is in the form of lipid droplets stored within the liver.A well nourished human being can go  without vitman A and beta carotene in diet while maintaining  the blood vessels within the normal range for months.it is only when the liver deposits depletes that the deficiency appears. 

Retinol is reversible conversion into Retinal and Retinal is irreversibly converted into Retinoic acid.This activates several genes.

Plasma levels of vitman A are used as biomarker to confirm vitman A deficiencies. Breast milk level of vitman A detects deficiency in nursing mothers.Vitman A toxicity is known as hypervitaminosis.and can occur if vitman A gets accumulated within the body.Sign and symptoms such as skin changes,fatigue, muscle weakness and liver abnormalities are detected. 

Carotenoids are pigments that give colors such as yellow,red and orange to the fruit and vegetables. Green leafy vegetables, kale, spinich and broccoli are high in vitamin A.colored vegetables include tomatoes, pumpkin, cantaloupe, winter squash and mango are few of the examples. Animal sources include milk,eggs,beef and milk.

Beta carotene is an antioxidant....protecting the cells from free radical damage that can lead to long term disease and play a role in overall aging.

The role of vitman A in skin is a very important one,it promotes wound healing ,prevents acne breakouts and comodones and promotes natural moisturizing. It normalizes the tyrosine kinase enzyme activity thus helps in reversing hyperpigmentation. It prevents sagging of the skin by promoting healthy collagen and elastin formation by stimulating fibroblasts, making the skin firmer and more youthful.Vitman A regulates cels apoptosis,differentiation and proliferation. 

Prevents damage from UV radiation, pollution, therefore helps in diminishing age spots,sun spots and promotes over all skin tone.

According to academy o dermatology it help with acne healing,including exfoliation,removes dirt,oil and dead skin cell from the pores and the pimples. Severe acne can be treated with isotretinon (Accutane).under the supervision of a dermatologist.

Helps heal and treat psoriasis by limiting the formation of cytokines and interlukins....  the inflammatory factors responsible for causing psoriasis. 

Pregnent and nursing women should avoid retinoids in skin care products and cosmetics. 

Retinoids come in various forms including  creams, gels,lotions,ointments and serums. A pea size is plenty for the entire face, starting from the forehead working your way down to the lower face. Apply it at night at a frequency of 2 to 3 times a week.If you feel you are not getting any benefits than increase the percentage. Always do a patch test before starting a regime.

Cleanse your face with a gentle cleanser, pat the face dry.apply the products using a pea size avoiding the eye and the mouth. Moisturizere your skin 10 minutes after you have applied a retinoid products.Always use a sun screen and protective clothing when going out in the sun.

Some of the common side effects includes, skin dryness, itching, redness,peeling,flakness and sun burn. Avoid the use of retinoids on sun burnt and broken skin. 

High prescription retinoids are only available by prescription from your dermatologist. Adapalene (defferen) is available over the counter for acne treatment.

Tretinon versus Retinol, Tretinon is available only by prescription and Retinol is less stronger and is available over the counter.

Retinol can be used with other products such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide as both will reduce the irritation caused by Retinol.

Retinol can be used with salicylic acid in a face wash however in a alternate regimen, morning for salicylic acid and evening for Retinol. Alternately on different days treatment is also suggested if dryness is the issue.

Retinol can be use with vitman C as both products can help with skin tone and texture however an alternate day treatment is also suggested as both can cause irritation.

There are several different products available in the market for use, some are very cost effective.The best brands that are available include Neutrogena, Cera Vea and dermalogica. Always read the instructions for use carefully and do not forget to do a patch test. Combining a retinod with a Moisturizer will make the application very desirable. Too much use of these products can cause thining of the skin use keep less is better theory in mind. 

 

GO NUTS OR BERRIES AND BEYOND,THE ROLE OF ANTIOXIDANTS IN SKIN CARE; Antioxidants are the substances that protect your skin against free radicals damage,which  plays a part in heart disease, cancers,other diseases and skin aging.The theory of free radical was published in the 1950.Free radicals are the molecules that are produced in the process of oxidation, that happen when your body breaks down food or when one is exposed to tobacco smoke and radiation. Antioxidant  such as VitC, Vitman E and carotenoids may help protect  cells from damage caused by free radicals. What are these free radicals, these are the byproduct of turning food into energy, excersise and external environmental factors.These free radical have an appetite for electrons which these steal from the nearby healthy cells,changing the instructions code in the strand of DNA,that causes damage through oxidative stress leading to chronic disease and aging.The body combacts this attack by making molecules that act as fire extinguisher to quench these free radicals. These molecules are the electron donors called the Antioxidants that we extract from the food sources that donate the electrons to the free radicals, thereby starting the process of DNA repair.

The antioxidant came to the public attention in the 1990,when it was discovered that free radical damage is involved in the in the early stage of artery clogging.....atherosclerosis. VitE, beta carotene are considered as weapons against chronic  disease and are added to the processed food as an additives that can prevent heart disease,cancers,memory loss and other conditions. Using Antioxidants supplements as single isolated substances may not be as affective, as taking them naturally since the supplements donot contain the naturally occurring chemicals called polyphenols,like proanthorcynins and flavnoids,which also possess antioxidant activity that may also team up to fight against disease. 

Naturally occurring  antioxidants: include flavonoids,tannins,phenols and lignans,plant based include fruits,vegetables, grains, nuts, seeds,herbs,spices and cocoa. These antioxidants are also rich in fibre,low in saturated fats and cholesterol  and a good source of vitamins and minerals. The other antioxidant minerals include selenium and magnisam. 

Sources of vitman C; broccoli, Brussels sprouts, grape fruit.turnip,green leafy vegetables, lemon, orange, papyrus, strawberry and tomatoes. 

Sources of vitman E; Almonds,avocado, Swiss cheese,peanuts,spinich, sunflowers.

Sources of carotenoids including beta carotene  and lycopene. Includes apricots,beets,broccoli, kale,mango,sweet potato, tengerines,tomatoes and water melon.

Sources of selenium; Brazilian nuts,fish,shell fish,poultry, beef and brown rice.

Sources of Zinc; shrimp,sesame,chickpeas,lentils,cashews

BENIFITS OF ANTIOXIDANTS IN SKINCARE;

Reduce DNA damage from uv light, hydration, stimulating collagen and elastin  production, Reducing the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentation, supports healing process, reducing inflammatory, prevent acne breakouts, brightening the complexion and with hperpigmentation. 

POWERFUL ANTIOXIDANTS IN SKIN;

Glutathione .

Riboflavin Vit B2.

Selenium .

Vitamin C.

Vitman E.

Zinc.

Magnesium. 

We will only discuss a few that are used in topical skin care products. 

Vitamin E also called as tocopherol prevent aging, prevents UV damage and thinning of the skin by increasing the production of collagen, improving immune system, reduces inflammation and help heal scaring .Super rich repair lotion by dermologica for uv damage skin and after laser therapy.Multivitman power firm by dermologica for around the eyes using ring finger. 

Vitamin C, in the form of L-ascorbic acid for oily to normal skin. Ascorbyl phosphate for dry to normal skin. The absorption of topical vitman C largely  depends on its PH levels, for normal skin look for a low PH 3.5 products in the skin care for optimum absorption, for sensitive skin look for a formulation with PH range of 5 to 6.The daily application is once/day, 3 times/week.For sensative skin only 1/week. Alway use VitC before applying VitE, these can be combined together in the same regimen. 

To name few of the serum like Peter Thomas Roth potent Vit C serum., Drunk elephant c- firma vit c day serum.Both of them available  at ulta.

Vit C also works best in combination  with Vit E,ferulic Acid, Vit B and hyaluronic acid. Loreal Paris Revitalift derm intense serum.C 12 pure bright serum by dermologica.

Vit C inhibits tyrosine kinase enzyme there by improving melasma for light and dark skin.Also greatly helps in improving the sun spots.

Skin is the site for multiple oxidative reactions which can lead to various issues from darkening of the skin to aging, thinning and  damage by exogenous environmental factors.Therefore our body is designed in such a manner that it can combact such oxidative stress by using antioxidant which enters our body through food and topical applications. The market is overwhelmed with the large quantity of the products to help us preserve our body from chronic stress and disease.If you plan to take a supplement always take the advice of your health care provider . For that applications of topical products always opt for a spot test on your arm or behind the ear lobe, especially if your skin is sensitive. Try to adhere to a regime for al least one month for maximum benefits. 

References,

National centre for complementary and integrative health, antioxidant in depth, 7/1/2019.

Nutritional journal , 2010 Dec 9(1)3.

New England of medicine 1996, may 2, 334(18) 1145-9. 

Pubmed Google scholar Swiss med weekly 2012,142-w-1350-1359.

Pubmed Google scholar, journal of invest dermatology 2005-124:793-797.

Journal cosmetic laser therapy, 2013,15,107- 113 skin and antioxidant. 

 

 

 

FEEL ELEGANT ON SPECIAL OCCASIONS: As we are anticipating approaching  special occasions such as Thanksgiving and Christmas we get into the stress season we need to look forward to and not burdened with the prospect by taking special care of our external and internal selves needs such as taking time out from our busy routine lives that are revolveing around our  job ,kids , home and family.where are we !! HELLO are we there the machenical human being.we certainly think about it for a moment and then again start getting into the busy bee life. Have you realized how long ago was your previous facial treatment, how long ago you consulted your skin therapist or your dermatologist regarding the changes that you have noticed on your facial skin due to you missing daily routines around your skin care ,your getting in bed without removing makeup, with out the rituals of holy grail retinol applications for renewing your dull, tired skin. well,well....,it is time since special occasions are  knocking on your door to bring you back to life.

The time has arrived to look into your medicine cabinet and getting back into a routine. The first thing that you should do to take a day out of your busy routine and start making an appointment for your skin make over with your specialist, think about getting your face, nails and hair done on the same day. There are lots of places and options available to choose from such as a spa.....where a body message wouldn't not be a bad idea too. However if you opted only for skin, hair and nails a beauty salon would be the right place for you. After making this special decision you now need to follow a prerequisite before enjoying the full benefits of your visit. And that to start following your daily routine. One regmine in the morning and one in the evening before hitting the sack.

The morning ritual should include, a mild cleanser, followed by an exfoliant, a toner if you are acne prone and a Moisturizer and of course a sunscreen. You can use an spf30 with a built-in foundation. For the evening the same as the morning routine except adding retinol twice a week and a serum such as vitaminC.on the days that you are not using retinols. This is the least you can do before getting ready for your trip to your specialist as it will give you a routine to follow and also will have an excellent out come with your facial. 

Since holidays bring lots of joy at the same time there is excessive sugar consumption which can lead to breakouts ....making your face acne prone. benzyl peroxide medication for emergency spot treatment is good option for you.

The time has arrived  for you to treat yourself. Wear comfortable clothing. Get there in time so that you are not stressed out. Now let's update you on what to expect. After you have a short conversation with your skin specialist regarding what brings you to the spa or the beauty salon, she will put a strong  emphasis on your skin concerns, a brief history regarding previous treatments, any medications your are on,any contraindications, any form of allergy that you have to any medications,any topical products, any recent strong exposure to sun.Any waxing done before etc. The next step comes with signing of a consent form. After that you change into a gown, store your belongings and you are directed to your room or a special chair. 

Following are the steps that the therapist will undertake to give you a good facial.

1.A dry first look consultation on the condition of your skin, she will question you about your heritage to figure out your fritzpatrick scale, what type of skin you have,wether, you have normal, oily, acne prone skin, dry skin,combination skin or sensative skin.

2.Following step include your first warm towel matching your skin temperature going on your skin followed by a cleansing step.This if usually followed  a detailed face skin mapping regarding the external interpretation of your internal body environment. 

3.Second cleanse followed by steaming for 8 to 10 minutes. 

4.Exfoliation, followed by extractions if you have acne prone skin.

5.Warm towels after every step.

6. Message is the next step, the essence of a great facial when you are fully relaxed and enjoying. It is the step in which detoxification is also stressed upon.

7.Mask application if the next step to follow,here the skin specialist decides what type of mask will benefit your skin the most.This step takes 15 minutes.

8.Mask removal followed by a toner and a serum according to your skin type.

9. Moisturizing of the skin is the next step to follow.

10. Eye treatment and lip treatment.

11. Sun screen application is the final step.

12. Gown change into your own attire. 

For a more detailed review of the steps on what to expect in a facial are given in my book journey through esthetics  and in the previous blogs on facials at elegancelooks.net. If you ever want to go for a superficial peel or microdermabrasion as a part of your rejuvenation plan,at least plan 2 to 3 weeks ahead of time. A plain facial you can plan only 2 week ahead.These are the ball park suggestions.

Now that you have completed your facial,you can head out towards your hair and Nails appointments .

After you have come back home and had a throughly relaxing experience, try drinking warm water.we advice our clients to take a half to one hour nap that make you feel thoroughly rejuvenated as the body relaxes and so does the skin.it increases circulation and promotes detoxification. 

The next day is the time for you to decide also on your attire, try hanging it separately as you can add to it later on. Your jewelry choice can take a peek too.It is a good idea to decide in advance and you can add on to it later on .Stess is the least for you to worry about and try reducing it,as it can encourage breakouts.

Make up is a huge success during holidays season .It is time to take a trip to the mall, go to sophera or the mac, or the Estee Lauder counter and make a special effort to get a whole make over especially recommended for the holidays. My suggestions are very strong for urban decay and mac for festive colors.Lipsticks should be the main focal point for the entire look.Choose reds and maroons for the dinner time and pink ,peaches during the day time. Do not forget the eye make up, a slightly shimmering eye shadow over the eye lids ,especially in the central portion will add drama to your entire face.To compliment this look add a glow white or gold eyeshadow over the brows bone as an accent.Do not forget contouring your cheek and face. Please refer yourselves to the make up chapter in journey through esthetics .You will find several helpful tips.

Holiday seasons are the best time of the year to enjoy and be  closer and near to your loved ones.Enjoy laughing together, singing together, enjoying meals together and do not forget discussing recipices together. You can always make your trip to the spa with your family to spent quality time together. Always remember few of the recipes that we shared in our previous blogs are also good an exfolients  and masks. Plan a head and make the most of it. Be responsible and always remember the less privileges ones. Happy Thanksgiving and merry Christmas to all of you.

 

 

 

BEING HAPPY AND AVOIDING WORRY DURING THE HOLIDAY SEASON:We are in the holiday season, it's already the month of december and everybody is looking forward to the soon approaching Christmas and new year. Dear reader we have plans to make regarding who will be coming home to celebrate with us, and if you are the host your lunch maneu ,table settings, flower arrangements and then if the guest are staying over, the sleeping arrangements. All of this require special planning days ahead of time.Admist all of this hessel and bussel, you definitely forgot the special you. According to our previous blog we suggested a special day out of your routine at least two weeks ahead of your arrangements plans for yourself to indulge and pamper yourself. Now at the present moment let us assume that you have given our suggestions a strong consideration and have had your basic self preparation taken care off.

In today's blog we will talk about the flawless skin that you want to attain for a glowing, elegant you, not only through makeup but also with innermost reliance and beauty.You are the host... therefore you should present yourself with elegance and inner beauty that should reflect upon other from your home ,atticates ,manners and your inner and outer beauty. Let's start with the assumption that it is already Christmas day and you are done most of your stuff and getting ready for your guest.The dresser is all for you and you are ready to start with makeup application.

In order to achieve a flawless skin you will have to prep your self, you should start with a mild cleanser followed by an exfoliant, today since it a special occasion we will choose a mild enzyme exfoliant since the cooking and stress due to other arrangements may have left your skin sensative, therefore you wouldn't want to do any aggressive exfoliation, always gentle strokes around your face and neck /decollate. This is followed by patting drying of the skin,followed by a mild toner,since it will help you control the oiliness on your face,if your skin is too dry.a gentle spray with rose water will be helpful.The following step is the serum application according to your skin type.....we recommend vitminC serum.Now comes the Moisturizer, donot over use the Moisturizer as it will make the makeup run all over the face, since some natural oils will come out and make the skin moist. After the Moisturizer we recommend a gentle wipe with the leftover toner on your cotton pad. The next step is foundation application which should be at least a tone lighter than your natural skin tone, always use a round sponge with dabbing movements to apply the foundation,since it will fill up the pore too.This step is followed by a liquid brightener which is a deviated step fom the conventional make up steps.The brightener strobe cream by Mac, color goldlite.should be pretty much applicable like the foundation with the help of a sponge. Following step is your concealer, that goes around your face below the cheek bone towards the ear. Two lines around the edges of the nose and around the cheek bones.Two dabs around your forehead bones and each around the inner and outer corner of the eyes. Now comes the favorite phrase ......bland, bland and bland.using circular motions with the help of a sponge.Think you are preparing a canvas for yourself potirate, in your next step you apply setting powder, choosen According to the skin type, loose powder for normal to dry and compact for the oily skin.Try apply with a round brush and shed the excess inside the container. The eye make up starts with a medium beige shade around the eye lids socket,minimizing the eye bone at the sametime with a darker shade . Remember we had previously applied the concealer, that should blend with the darker shade too. The lighter shade goes on under the eye brow, follw this with a shimmer either around the eyelid or the brow bone ,followed by a gentle blend.Repeat the same around the other eye.For lining the eyelids ,the choice a your,a liquid eye liner or a smudge look with chest nut or a brown black shade. Do not forget the lower eyelid, use a straight eye brush with the same darker shade to do this. Do not go too close to the inner corner of the eye and a little away from the outer as it creates a natural look.Now is the time to use band eyelashes,we however recommend a mascara look is more natural and elegant. Filling of the eyebrow must not be forgotten a taupe shade or light brown shade applied with a slant brush.Come back to the cheeks and apply blusher....choose peach as a reference for us,otherwise a pink is not bad either. The central point of the potirate has been reached.....the lips.There is good variety available in the market, we recommend a little dramatic look like a warm color. Always use a lip pencile first to out line the lips that should be darker than your lipstick followed by filling your lips with a lip brush. Press your lips in-between your lips and reapply the lip color again for a long lasting look.Now a day lots of 24 hour lasting lip colors are available especially by Mac.Take a look to see the final complete look before the setting spray by urban decay. Donot forget your neck age during foundation application and blush application.

You are almost there ,charm your self with pearls around the neck and ears .A fine perfume for extra reflection of your  identity, posture yourself with elegance and confidence. Show your inner strength of self and beauty. Walk that door with balance between confort and sophistication already to greet  your guest,your loved ones. Enjoy your day with good taste ,food and fun.

How to deal with hyperpigmentation and it's causes step by step:

We deal with hyperpigmentation in our lives on regular bases, either it was due to a pimple popping up and leaving us a reminder.or secondary to a nice time at the beach, by the end of the day we looked in the mirror wondering am I the same person,when i got to the beach with a different Fitzpatrick scale and came back home with a different one. Well well !!! we do pay a price......There are various factors that can lead to hyperpigmentation .In lay man's term our skin tone or color of our skin. This can be accompanied by dryness issues, the opposite too much oiliness ,dehydration, finelines and wrinkles name a few.The little one running around could have brought to you as a gift from God reminding you of his or her presence. Let's begin our journey into the World of hyperpigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation means more pigment production  due to excessive melanin pigment ,that is produced by special cells present with in the basal layer of the epidermis...the upper layer of the skin.This is the pigment which give that special color to your skin.Some individual have more color and other have less.Excessive production of melanin pigment can be produced secondary to various intrinsic and Extrinsic factors.We will try to discuss those that are commonly encounter in our lives.

The major extrinsic factor that is a cause of hyperpigmentation is the environmental factor ......you must have guessed it by now the sun rays.This is actually a denfense mechanism against those harmful rays that is built in your body to protect you against the UV rays.The more you stay in the sun the darker you will become.In the Long run you are going to exhaust the defense mechanism, ending up with sun spots.....these are not precancerous, however excessive sun exposure can result in precancerous lesions called actinic keratosis that mat look like sun spots however,these are rough in texture. Always have yourself  checked by a dermatologist if you spend regular time in the sun on yearly basis. Always wear a sunscreen of at least SPF 30 ,applying every 2 hours for maximum benefit. Trauma is another cause for hyperpigmentation such as acne cuts,scrapes, bug bites,friction and constant vigorous rubbing results in leaving the melanin producting cells in high gear leaving behind dark spots after the injury has healed.....this is called post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.  

The major intrinsic factors that is the one from within your body include genetics, acne ,hormonal changes during pregnancy resulting in melasma ,post menopausal hormonal changes,using birth control pills,other medications such as hormones, non steroidal antinflammatory medication ,antimalerial, chemotherapeutic agents.....usually these spots will resolve in 10 to12 .

TREATMENTS OPTIONS FOR INSTINSIC FACTORS OF HYPERPIGMENTATION. 

Teenage acne. We suggest clearstart clearing denfence SPF 30 to start as a sunscreen denfense against the UV rays.For the darkspots breakouts clearing booster and power bright dark spots serum.it is gental and leave the skin dewy. There are kits available by dermologica the also contains a foaming wash and a toner and a hyaluronic acid containing Moisturizer. Other options also include products containing salicylic acid, glycolic naicinamide B3 helps prevent breakouts and redness.For persistent acne consult your dermatologist for prescription retinol products. Never scrap or self extract blackheads or white heads or pop pimples. This will further aggreviates the problem. We have other blogs that addresses issues regarding acne.Regular acne facials are so a very good options as you can get a detailed skin consultation  and extractions done under aseptic conditions if you are having issue with black heads 

Hormonal hyperpigmentation :Also called melasma can be the cause of hyperpigmentation during pregnancy, hormonal intake or oral contraceptive use.This type of hyperpigmentation is considered the most stubborn and is a challenge to treat.

Some of the option include protecting the skin from the direct sun exposure therfore we would suggest staying indoor during the treatment meaning not visiting the beach,also wearing sun screen on regular basis.

Vitman C containing products can be very helpful if incorporated into the daily routine in the morning before applying the Moisturizer. 

Retinoids vit A containing products over the counter or by prescription are very affective as these increase the turnaround time of the cell getting rid off the old cells. please discontinue if redness or irritation occurs

Azelaic acid, containing dicarboxylic acid produced yeast such as barley and wheat.It helps restore skin to its healthy state and is helps in treating acne by killing bacteria,  decreasing production of keratin and increases turn over. Over the counter azelaic acid strength is 10% and prescription strengths are higher up to 20% Since it decrease the melanin production it is great for correcting the darker skin issues.

Aloe vera ,is a natural depigmenting compound,non toxic can be incorporated into your bedtime routine.

Licorice root:is used as a flavor in candy and beverage botanically known as Glycyrrhiza Glabra root extract.It has antioxidant, anti inflammatory and skin Brightening properties, it not only removes pigment also prevents it from forming new one.it has a skin firming effect. Suggestion,Eminence organic bright skin Licorice Root Booster serum.

Other options include,

chemical peels on regular basis done by a professional.

Laser/IPL therapy

Microdermabrasion on regular basis, better done by a  professional if you have issues with melasma.  

Home remedies,using tomato paste,masoor lentil soaked and grounded, making it into a paste with milk and apply it like a mask 2/week.

Green tea and black tea extracts after boiling them in water for 10 to 15 minutes, cooling down the mixture and applying with a cotton ball 2 to 3 times a week.

Since hyperpigmentation is frequently accompanied by other issues such as dehyratin,dryness,oiliness, finelines and wrinkles.Address these issues as needed.The products we recommend do take care of the edjoining issues too. A good Moisturizer is the key to a better hydration, circulation and penetration of skin care products. 

There is a lot to cover regarding treatments for hyperpigmentation.your best bet is to visit your skin therapist for a proper skin consultation and go from there, it will give you an idea if you need professional help with prescription medicine or over the counter will help.Two important  tips to consider, try staying out of sun during treatments Always wear sun screen and be diligent in following your treatment plan. Communicate with your professional person with any questions  you may have regarding your treatment. Haste makes waste...........

 

HANDS OF TIME,FINE LINE AND WRINKLES; 

Healthy aging is not just about avoiding disease, it is about enjoying life,staying active,connected and productive. It is lifelong commitment between our body and soul and the passing of time. Harmony and happiness can be achieved if we balanced the three along with our external appearances, right attitude and resources. Lets begin the journey  though the hands of time taking one step at a time into the process of healthy aging, disease prevention and a healthy lifestyle. 

Let's start with the right education  strategies by keeping  our client well- informed about the latest achievements in skin care, we must acquire a wholesome body approach including  healthy eating, adequate sleeping, excercise, how to destress  one's body and mind, sun protection and so forth. Suggesting non invasive, non toxic methods to begin with such as from using the right mild exfoliant, to the right kind of antioxidant and Moisturizers and the appropriate sun protection from light clothing to hat wearing to using the right sun protection every two hours while sitting in the sun using shade. 

The second most important action to consider is a regular monthly facials into your routine that will provide you with a chance to visit your skin therapist, who will thoroughly examine your skin and letting you know about the concerns and conditions that she need to address and how to resolve those issues.The skin therapist will also suggest to you weather noninvasive or invasive procedures are most beneficial to your skin health. To mention a few include  chemical peels, miconeedling, microdermabrasion. Light therapy is another  modality that can be incorporated  into the professional services

Let's dive a little deeper into the physiological indicators that leads to aging and appearance of fine line and wrinkles. These include the bonding relationship between your skin cell,your collagen/elastin levels,the connective tissue holding the muscles and the bones together. Not only the quantative levels are important the qualitative levels are as important as well. The key to healthy aging and longivity is a balance between these factors.

As we age the  the body collagen production decreases.The collagen that is been produced is not very healthy Since the bodily wear and tear has an affect on your overall being , the on going  process of  glycation such such as foods are rich in suger and starch ,the Metalloprotienases are active due to excessive  sun exposure, the supplemental deficiencies including vits  A,D,C and E deficiencies the thyroid health, the sex hormones and the cortisol stress hormone levels are all of the contributing factors. Most likely an imbalance exist between these factors leading  to degradation of collagen and elastin resulting in sagging, fine lines and wrinkles another factor is loosing of the connective tissue along the bones and muscles.

The remedies to these on going changes/ processes in our bodies can be addressed if we keep moderation into  our life style. From application of the skin products to the routine regular excersises to eating,  to sitting in the sun, all require a moderate approach. Mental health will eventually  affect the way your skin looks and feel,.Therefore both the physcial and mental health are important in healthy skin and aging.Personalized treatments plans  are the way to go based on each client needs.

We must consider ourselves to be the true advocates of our bodies therefore a harmonious relationship is the key to youthful aging. Aging is a natural  and a ongoing universal process that is experienced by everybody, however the way each person perceive it varies. As a skin provider we have an important role to play by listening to the client concern, a fairly open honest conversation about  skin concerns with your skin therapist and listening to the suggestions. Most of the time ethics comes into play and it becomes the responsibility of the skincare professionals to provide the care and a realistic approach that is much needed.This said ,the young clients should be handled with care regarding their egarness to start aggressive approach to skin care , especially the injectable and surgical procedures at an early age as some of the every affective non- invasive procedures and products are available to start them on a preventive regmine accordingly. Habits changing are a good way to start for a healthy youthful appearance that includes moderation and a structured realistic living life style.

Referances, previous blogs, will provide a detailed description of the aging and longivity process. 

""Gracefully aging ,beyond the skin asile  and premature do you have the signs. Skin and longivity. ""

 

M; FOR MICROBIOTICA WE ARE NOT ALONE. The human body is colonized by a large number of microorganisms, including bacteria, fungi yeast, viruses and protozoas. These are collective known as the microbiomes. For every human cell in the human body there is a non human cell.

Microorganisms live on our skin, gut ,genitals and body fluids,the one living in our gut are known as the Gut microbiomes, these help us digest food,produce  essential vitamins, shape our immune system  and help fight off pathogens,the composition of the gut microbiomes depend on the environmental factors such as diet and stress,and these change with age.The number can increase or decrease. 

Healthy young people have complex microbiomes with different species of bacteria diversely decreases with age.The microbiomes on the elderly people are less complex and are characterized by the presence of more pathogenic bacteria. People who live long have found to have microbiomes present in younger individuals, suggesting that they have healthier microbiomes, ref:wilmanski et al...2021.Maxplanck institute for biological aging.

TYPES OF AGING:

CELLULAR AGING, a cell can replicate about50 times before the genetic  the genetic material is no longer able to copy the DNA accurately.This failure to replicate is called cellular senescence during which the cell loses its functional  characteristics. The accumulation of senescence cells is hallmark of cellular aging which in translate into biological aging.The more damage is done to the cells by free radicals  and the environmental factors the more cells need to replicate  and the more cellular  senescence  develop.

HORMONAL AGING:As we age, the hormones attend to decrease,during the childhood these help to build bones and muscles and facilitate the development  of male and female characteristics. As the hormones  began to decrease with time leading to skin changes such as wrinkles, loss of muscle tone,bone density and sex drive.

ENVIRONMENTAL AGING; Exposure to UV radiation, toxins unhealthy food and pollutant  can take a toll on the body.Over the time these factors can directly damage DNA in the cells due to persistent inflammation leading to inability to repair the damage 

METABOLIC AGING: As we live our lives the cells ate constantly turning food into energy  and at the sametime  producing byproduct some of which can be harmful to the body and can damage the cells,a phenomenon referred to metabolic aging.Caloric restrictions  can slow aging in humans. 

Since as we go through a process of aging like our organs these microbiomes also show a shift in their flora.Skin microbiomes  are connected through the gut- skin axis,that means the the presence of good or bad bacteria will have an impact on the skin and vice versa.Therefore to maintain a healthy microbiomes environment, alway watch out for what you put on your skin and how you feul your body.If the skin microbiomes are weakened, the skin barrier is unprotected leading to redness,dryness and skin sensitivity and can lead to worsening of certain  skin conditions. 

Probiotic are alive bacteria  that affect the digestion system in the body can be found in foods like yogurt  taken as a dietary supplement, Prebiotic can act as food for the Probiotic to stimulate healthy bacterial  growth. Adding Prebiotic and Probiotic to the skin care products can provide benefits  such as supporting skin barrier. Avoid  comeogenic products as these can affect the PH levels killing beneficial bacteria or grow harmful bacteria, all affecting the skin microbiomes symbiosis.

PROPERTIES OF MICROBIOTICA 

Fight infection.

Help your immune system.

Protect against harmful UV radiation leading to skin cancer 

Wound healing and control inflammation 

FACTORS AFFECTING MICROBIOTICA 

Genes,diet ,lifestyle ,air pollution and exposure to UV radiation. 

HOW TO KEEP YOUR SKIN MICROBIOTICA HEALTHY.

1- Do not over sansatize  your skin as it will disrupt the the balance between healthy and harmful microorganisms. Even over washing the babies can cause eczema

2- Do not over exfoliate or message for long hours.

3- Moisturize properly to protect your skin barrier.

4- Eat balanced diet, avoiding red meat, processed foods.Eating a lot of plant based foods,fruit and fibre. 

5- Excercise on regular basis as physcial activity is good for your over all health,it will change your gut microbiomes in good way.

6-Treat medical conditions such as diabetes, IBD such as ulcerative colitis and crohn's disease 

7- Quit smoking as it causes inflammation and disrupt your skin and gut microbiomes. 

8- Socalize, laugh ,take walks inbthe park.

9-Get ample of sleep at least 7 to 8 hours as sleep deprivation can lead to inflammation and poor health.

10- Reduce stress as chronic stress and anxiety can lead to cortisol release .....the stress hormone leading to inflammation, learn to control stress  ,relaxation and mind body therapies may alleviate the inflammatory process.

SPECIES OF BACTERIA INCLUDED IN THE MICROBIOTICA:

Actinobacteria (36 to 51%),Firmicutes (24 to 34%) Proteobacteria (11 to 16%) Bacteriodetes( 6 to 9%).ref: gallo-2017, Byrd et al...2018,maclounghalin et al....2021

SPECIES OF FUNGUS INCLUDED IN THE MICROBIOTICA: Melassizia spp,Cryptococcus spp,Rhodotorola spp,Aspergillus spp.

VIRUSES INCLUDED IN THE MICROBIOTICA: Beta and Gamma human papillomaviruses are the most common. 

AFFILIATED SKIN CONDITIONS:

ATOPIC DERMATITIS; Staphylococcus aures  is the most common in AD( ref:langan et al.....2020) Melassiza spp in severe atopic dermatitis in up to 90% of the lesions.

SEBORRHEIC DERMATITIS,  Chronic inflammatory skin disease in both pediatric and adult ages, ranging from scaling to severe erythomatous plaques of the scalp,face and neck. Melassizia spp has a relevant role in the pathogenesis through disruption of skin barrier. 

ALOPECIA ARETIA: Non scaring type of hair loss  with a 2% prevalence in the general  population, hair loss varies from patches to diffuse total hair loss affecting all hair bearing sites. Predominantly  autoimmune mediated destruction of hair follicle, a shift in the microbiomes of the hair follicles  can lead to peribulbar inflammation  leading to AA. Gut dysbiosis can act as a common pathway in patient with both inflammatory bowel disease and AA.

PSORIASIS: Chronic inflammatory disorder with a world wide prevalence  of 2% results from a complex interaction between genetic predisposition and environmental factors that incite immune disregulation leading to rapid proliferation of keratincytes and infiltration of immune cells leading to formation of erythomatous plaques. S aureus colonazises about 60% of the psoriasitic lesions.Other organisms include streptococcus progenes  and candida albicans. Corhn's disease increases up to  5 times the risk of psoriasis. Prebiotic and probiotic have a role in  adjuvant treatment of psoriasis. 

ACNE: is a chronic inflammatory disorder of pilosebaceus unit affecting about 85% of the adolescent  and young adults. Melassizia  plays a role in refractory acne

As we gain better knowledge  of the skin microbiomes, several unanswered questions  will guide future research towards a better understanding  of the interacting between the host and the microorganisms environment. Probiotic and Prebiotic utilization  can in the future be an effective therapeutic tool replacing bad bacteria with the good  one.There are home kits available to guide you as to what type of bacteria  resides on your skin with the goal of recommending skin care products for the most effective use.

 

 

THE EAST MEETS THE WEST IN SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND INGREDIENTS;

The western culture where as places more emphasis on personal freedom,democracy and human rights, people being more assertive and fast pace, in contrast to eastern culture where  emphasis is more placed on social harmony, duty and respect for authority, people are more indirect, shy introvert and avoid conflict,  are relaxed and family oriented. Clothing and religious beliefs are different and saying  without  biases  all these life style trends, social way of living and interacting influences the type of environment client chooses for their skincare needs and the products that are trending in those regions of the world. Let's explore the beauty of this uniqueness and blend that exist within the two cultures and how people are influenced by the trend sets in different  countries around the world.

Within the western culture is fast pace,on the go  the focus is more on immediate results instead of nurturing long term health of the skin incorporating advance technologies ,the emphasis is mainly on the skincare problem that have already appeared where as the eastern focuses more on the prevention of the problem. 

The Eastern culture include countries like Asia and Middle East where as the western culture include countries like north and South America, European countries, New Zealand abd Australia. 

The United States, Japan and France  provide  the highest quantity of the beauty products 

In United States the native  American  used aleovera  to smooth and heal as well as heal and protect it from harsh environment like sun burn in the areas like dry dessert. Corn is used as a exfoliant and cleanser. Creeping Janiper for shiny hair products. Prickly pear as a anti inflammatory  for protecting the skin form sun leading to improved texture and appearance Mild mint is used by Cheyenne Indians as hair oil and for itchy dry skin in bathing.

In Japan, charcoal is very popular in skin care products  for its ability  to make skin clearer and brighter for its ability to attract toxins.

In South Korea, Seoul,the skincare capital of the world, scientifically sophisticated, artistically package and reasonably  priced cosmetics and skin care goods.Eggs are traditionally used for natural  moisturizing ,tightening  and smoothing the skin. Egg shell mousse soap facial cleanser 

In Iceland Arctic Elixier serum, which promises to battle stress containing Arctic cloud berry seed oil,red cranberries seed oil and natural  glacier water.

In italy the natives used olive oil, yogurt  and tomato on their skin for better texture,a tan complexion as a sun protection product and to exfoliate. 

The turkish women used Argon oil called liquid gold as a remedy for wrinkles  as an antioxidant, moisture to improve  skin elasticity. 

Turkish baths called hammams or steam baths are used with brewed tea added to the bath to improve  blood circulation, tightening pores and revitalizing  the skin.

The middle eastern beauty scene is set to dazzle with the fusion of tradition and innovation  the captivating window to the soul is the main focal point of the beauty trends. These beauties traditionally use Argon oil,coconut oil and rose water to keep their skin health and dewy. 

In Egypt alevora is used to smooth inflamed complexion. Ancient Egyptians were the first one to use it for skin care purposes. It prevents sunburn and provides moisture capturing quality to the skin.

In Colombia avocado was use to make the skin skin radiant inside out,it increases elasticity, firmness and improve the skin barrier and is commonly used as a mask.

In Brazil oatmeal bath is used to calm the feel of the skin.oatmeal grounded serves as a gentle exfoliant, protect the skin barrier and hold moisture within the skin.

In Chile glow with the grapes, 30%of all the fruit grown in chile, it is source of Resveratrol.....the most potent antioxidant  to come from the red grapes .It protect the skin from wrinkles and aging.

In Sweden, a sauna session to purge toxins leaving the skin looking clear and purified.Luna larva mask is applied to the skin purging the toxins out.

In Australia Lanolian an oil found in sheep wool is the inspiration for New Aussie Brand Lano.

In Pakistan and India women use "obtian" with yougart to exfoliate and even out the skin tone.It is made with of gram flour grounded.Henna is used  for ritualistic beautification on the hands and feet.It is also used on the hair for deep conditioning and color purposes. Egg and yougot  mask are also common on the face and hair.

The most recommended brand name products that are recommended by dermatologist all around are LaRoche posay ....french brand CeraV, Skinceuticals., Cetaphil .

POINT TO REMEMBER FOR SKIN CARE

1- Alway spot test before using any new skin care product.

2-Try not to mix and match skin care products in order to avoid irritation use the same brand,as now a days most of the brands cover all corners.if you decide to do so  research  and always pat the products on the face and the body instead of vigorous rubbing. For sensative skin one brand products are perferable.Always consult a dermatologist if concerns arise. 

3-  Never layer retinol and vitmin C.

4- Donot mix and match Retinol, Glycolic acid and Salicylic acid containing products as these can result in redness and irritation.

5- Protect, treat and prevent should bo the moto in following a skincare routine.

Aging is a transcultural phenomenon, we must take measures to slower the process by choosing the right skin care products at the right time. Now a days when the choices are endless. One way of doing it is to know your skin type your cultural background and go from there.If you do want to explore other skin care products, choose the one for all skin type products.Be deligant in following a routine and a skin care product for at least 3 months for the maximum results. Alway enjoy your skin care routine and donot think of it as a burden that you have to.After all the culture that we are living in now appearances matter a lot and so does inner beauty.